Canine Behaviour Foundation Course
Module 2 - Section - 9 A - Dogs Fearful of People
Module 2 - Section - 9 A - Dogs Fearful of People
- Preparation for meeting the dog
- Setting up the circumstances for initial introduction
- Critical Distance and further preparations to meet the dog
- Greeting Procedure
- Entering the home
- Inside the home
If ANY type of reactive has already occurred then call in an experienced behaviourist to handle the consultation and accompany them on the visit to client – do not attempt to handle this case by yourself. The reactive behaviour can worsen dramatically in a very short period of time.
1.Preparation for meeting the dog
Firstly make sure that you have all the facts as to what the dogs current behaviour is towards strangers and what is very important is that this dog is met by you for the first time on lead. The reason for this is that the owner will have control over the dog, so the owners stress levels (and your own) are going to be less when the dog is controlled. This reduction of stress will impact on lowering the dogs stress levels as well. If a large breed dog, ensure that the owner can hold the dog securely and that equipment is correct and collar cannot come off – arrange this over the phone initially and when you first meet the dog, from a distance you will be able to ascertain if collar and harness is tight enough – if not, request owner to adjust before going further.
You will determine exactly where the dog’s first see’s visitors at this stage in time before you go to the home – then you will suggest an alternative area of the home instead. When we change the circumstances and location from where the dog will currently meet visitors, this can impact dramatically on the dogs behaviour by reducing stress and the anticipation of what normally happens – remember how important management can be to assist a dog to cope and make the changes necessary.
If the dog normally meets people in the home, then meet the dog outside in the garden instead. Alternatively if there seems to be a bit of resource guarding involved (toward owners or property), or if the dogs reaction to strangers is extreme, then rather meet the dog outside on the pavement or across the street , or even in a park – this also helps to reduce the possibility of the dog resource guarding its home or person.
If the dogs reaction to people is extreme, then arrange that the dog is taken for a short walk before hand and as it returns home, you meet the dog outside the gate where we have arranged to meet – this takes care of possible resource guarding the dogs garden area – the dog is now not coming from the garden, it is going towards the garden and this seems to change the dogs perception. Prevention of any fear reactions from the dog is crucial is setting yourself up for success, so take the time to determine all of the above.
1.Preparation for meeting the dog
Firstly make sure that you have all the facts as to what the dogs current behaviour is towards strangers and what is very important is that this dog is met by you for the first time on lead. The reason for this is that the owner will have control over the dog, so the owners stress levels (and your own) are going to be less when the dog is controlled. This reduction of stress will impact on lowering the dogs stress levels as well. If a large breed dog, ensure that the owner can hold the dog securely and that equipment is correct and collar cannot come off – arrange this over the phone initially and when you first meet the dog, from a distance you will be able to ascertain if collar and harness is tight enough – if not, request owner to adjust before going further.
You will determine exactly where the dog’s first see’s visitors at this stage in time before you go to the home – then you will suggest an alternative area of the home instead. When we change the circumstances and location from where the dog will currently meet visitors, this can impact dramatically on the dogs behaviour by reducing stress and the anticipation of what normally happens – remember how important management can be to assist a dog to cope and make the changes necessary.
If the dog normally meets people in the home, then meet the dog outside in the garden instead. Alternatively if there seems to be a bit of resource guarding involved (toward owners or property), or if the dogs reaction to strangers is extreme, then rather meet the dog outside on the pavement or across the street , or even in a park – this also helps to reduce the possibility of the dog resource guarding its home or person.
If the dogs reaction to people is extreme, then arrange that the dog is taken for a short walk before hand and as it returns home, you meet the dog outside the gate where we have arranged to meet – this takes care of possible resource guarding the dogs garden area – the dog is now not coming from the garden, it is going towards the garden and this seems to change the dogs perception. Prevention of any fear reactions from the dog is crucial is setting yourself up for success, so take the time to determine all of the above.
2.Setting up the circumstances for initial introduction
The manner in which you start interacting with a fearful dog will change according to the dog and the circumstances and you will need lateral thinking as to what would be the best approach for the dog. On average you will meet the dog on lead, however there are exceptions to this and here is an example below that shows how the normal interaction of meeting the dog had to be changed according to the circumstances as the dog was starting to show threatening behaviour to visitors when on lead.
With a large Boerboel Scotty worked with a few years ago, the owners had put the dog on lead when people arrived and his reaction was extreme with lunging, barking etc. If the owner left him off lead, he really terrorized people when they arrived at the gate, but once they were inside after about a further 10 minutes of trying to terrorize people, he became a teddy bear. What was happening is that as when he went into the ferocious act at the gate and on lead, any visitors would just back away – he really did look terrifying and of course the behaviour was reinforced and a wonderful game was enjoyed (by the dog at least!)
When Scotty first met him, instead of going inside she asked owners to let him out and just watch what she was doing. The more he went nuts at the gate, the more she turned her back on him and ignored him and his behaviour. After about ten minutes he was just looking at Scotty with no reaction. She did not want to treat the dog at this stage as did not want to encourage him taking treats from strangers which could have been dangerous. Rather asked the owner to call him, ask for a Sit, praised him and offered treats and to pop him on lead. She then proceeded with the standard introduction to a fearful dog and was soon interacting with him with no problems at all. All that was needed was a change in the old routine and trying a new way. What is very important of course, is that if the change is not working, try something else, and never, ever, put yourself in danger.
If the dog is resource guarding one or more particular people in the family, then this person is not holding the dog when you first meet it – we are setting ourselves up for success not failure. In this situation you would bring in additional modifications for resource guarding of people in the home.
You will now continue with Method 2 in the section on Fearful Pups, which is in Module 1 (reminder of procedure lower down) REMEMBER that with an adult dog it is the dogs prerogative as to whether it will approach the person, not the person approaching the dog.
Another important factor is that if the dog is not coping because the visitor is too close – then the owner will take the dog a step or two backwards and try again. If the person moves away from the dog then the dog may think that something it did caused the visitor to move. Also the owner taking a dog a few steps away when it is not coping, shows the dog that the owner is understanding its stress and taking steps to move the dog away from perceived threat which will raise owner in combined human/canine social structure.
Also bear in mind that it is a good idea to have regular breaks if the introduction is taking time. By doing this the dogs stress levels are lowered and we are chunking the procedure into segments the dog can cope with.
The manner in which you start interacting with a fearful dog will change according to the dog and the circumstances and you will need lateral thinking as to what would be the best approach for the dog. On average you will meet the dog on lead, however there are exceptions to this and here is an example below that shows how the normal interaction of meeting the dog had to be changed according to the circumstances as the dog was starting to show threatening behaviour to visitors when on lead.
With a large Boerboel Scotty worked with a few years ago, the owners had put the dog on lead when people arrived and his reaction was extreme with lunging, barking etc. If the owner left him off lead, he really terrorized people when they arrived at the gate, but once they were inside after about a further 10 minutes of trying to terrorize people, he became a teddy bear. What was happening is that as when he went into the ferocious act at the gate and on lead, any visitors would just back away – he really did look terrifying and of course the behaviour was reinforced and a wonderful game was enjoyed (by the dog at least!)
When Scotty first met him, instead of going inside she asked owners to let him out and just watch what she was doing. The more he went nuts at the gate, the more she turned her back on him and ignored him and his behaviour. After about ten minutes he was just looking at Scotty with no reaction. She did not want to treat the dog at this stage as did not want to encourage him taking treats from strangers which could have been dangerous. Rather asked the owner to call him, ask for a Sit, praised him and offered treats and to pop him on lead. She then proceeded with the standard introduction to a fearful dog and was soon interacting with him with no problems at all. All that was needed was a change in the old routine and trying a new way. What is very important of course, is that if the change is not working, try something else, and never, ever, put yourself in danger.
If the dog is resource guarding one or more particular people in the family, then this person is not holding the dog when you first meet it – we are setting ourselves up for success not failure. In this situation you would bring in additional modifications for resource guarding of people in the home.
You will now continue with Method 2 in the section on Fearful Pups, which is in Module 1 (reminder of procedure lower down) REMEMBER that with an adult dog it is the dogs prerogative as to whether it will approach the person, not the person approaching the dog.
Another important factor is that if the dog is not coping because the visitor is too close – then the owner will take the dog a step or two backwards and try again. If the person moves away from the dog then the dog may think that something it did caused the visitor to move. Also the owner taking a dog a few steps away when it is not coping, shows the dog that the owner is understanding its stress and taking steps to move the dog away from perceived threat which will raise owner in combined human/canine social structure.
Also bear in mind that it is a good idea to have regular breaks if the introduction is taking time. By doing this the dogs stress levels are lowered and we are chunking the procedure into segments the dog can cope with.
3.Critical Distance and further preparations to meet the dog
First determine the distance away from the person the dog is comfortable with and the visitor stands here– dogs critical space where it can accept a person being this close without any reaction - and the dog must not be able to lunge and touch the person.
Ensure that all you have with you are lots of really tasty treats and find out from owner before you go what is the dog’s favourite and owner also to have high value treats as well. Do not carry your bag, have a hat or glasses on and make sure your body language is non-threatening to the dog and if necessary use some Calming Signals yourself such as the odd lick of the lips, yawn, turning away a bit more etc. This will also apply when the owner does this exercise by themselves with visitors so explain to the owner why you are turning away etc so that owner also has this knowledge to pass onto a future visitor.
You must work very, very slowly and ensure that the dog is comfortable before going into the home. In situations such as this we suggest the use of one of the Avalon Pure for Dogs Herbal Sprays, however before using it will first ascertain what the dog’s normal reaction to people is without the use of the spray. After the first introduction owner is requested to apply the spray to the dog. This is a case where I would use the RE-active spray which is only available to behaviourists and trainers. Proceed with the standard exercise for introducing dog to visitors in a non-threatening manner. Remember that if the procedure is taking time, lots of regular breaks and below is a reminder of how the procedure is undertaken.
First determine the distance away from the person the dog is comfortable with and the visitor stands here– dogs critical space where it can accept a person being this close without any reaction - and the dog must not be able to lunge and touch the person.
Ensure that all you have with you are lots of really tasty treats and find out from owner before you go what is the dog’s favourite and owner also to have high value treats as well. Do not carry your bag, have a hat or glasses on and make sure your body language is non-threatening to the dog and if necessary use some Calming Signals yourself such as the odd lick of the lips, yawn, turning away a bit more etc. This will also apply when the owner does this exercise by themselves with visitors so explain to the owner why you are turning away etc so that owner also has this knowledge to pass onto a future visitor.
You must work very, very slowly and ensure that the dog is comfortable before going into the home. In situations such as this we suggest the use of one of the Avalon Pure for Dogs Herbal Sprays, however before using it will first ascertain what the dog’s normal reaction to people is without the use of the spray. After the first introduction owner is requested to apply the spray to the dog. This is a case where I would use the RE-active spray which is only available to behaviourists and trainers. Proceed with the standard exercise for introducing dog to visitors in a non-threatening manner. Remember that if the procedure is taking time, lots of regular breaks and below is a reminder of how the procedure is undertaken.
4. Greeting Procedure
This is followed AFTER the critical distance and perhaps a different location is used. Always start with the type of person the dog is most comfortable with (women, men, children etc).
Once this has been successfully done, the Watch exercise can be taught and used to get the dogs attention on owner at any time in the situation below.
The second the dog takes the treat the owner calls the dog back and praises and treats. If the dog is left smelling the visitors hand for too long this is often where stress will increase, calling the dog away and then repeating this several times normally makes for a successful outcome.
Crucial to be aware of the dogs body language to determine if the dog was handling the situation or not.
This is followed AFTER the critical distance and perhaps a different location is used. Always start with the type of person the dog is most comfortable with (women, men, children etc).
Once this has been successfully done, the Watch exercise can be taught and used to get the dogs attention on owner at any time in the situation below.
- Notes for owner regarding the visitors body language of not looking, standing relaxed, not bending over, no hats, glasses etc. With an adult dog it is ALWAYS the dog’s prerogative as to whether it will approach visitor. Dog is always on lead and is standing far enough away from visitor that if it does lunge no damage can be done.
- Both owner and visitor to have high quality treats and I always suggest something that has a strong scent.
- Visitor stands side ward’s and not staring a treat is tossed very close to the dog. If the dog takes the treat, owner praises and offers a treat as well. If the dog will not take the treat (and it normally would from owner), then the critical distance may be to close and owner should move dog a few steps further away.
- Visitor keeps on tossing treats at a distance the dog can cope and what is very important is the second the dog eats the treat, the owner calls the dog back to them, praises and offers a treat as well. The reason for this is that the owner is reinforcing the behaviour they do want, plus by the dog returning to the owner repeatedly we are lowering the stress levels.
- When the dog is happily taking the treats (with the owner treating as well), then the next treats are thrown a bit closer to where the stranger is standing. This MUST be done slowly with the dog being happy at each and every stage. If it is taking a long time then have a few breaks in between to reduce stress.
- This is repeated over and over and it is the dogs choice as to whether it approaches the visitor or not – not the visitor. As the dog takes the treat, owner calls it back and praises and treats themselves. This doubly re-enforces the positive experience and also gives the opportunity of stress to remain low by dog walking away from the visitor. The visitor NEVER walks away from the dog. The reason for this is that the dog may initially think that something it did caused the perceived threat to retreat – rather the owner takes the dog away.
- This will be repeated until the treat is thrown just next to the person. Here is a critical stage – instead of the visitor dropping the treat next to their feet, the visitor’s calls the dog offers about 3 treats presented with an open palm – no bending down over the dog and no staring. In a situation such as this never ‘drip feed’ the dog by placing treats on your palm one by one. The reason for this is that the stress levels will be reasonably high and the action of moving the hand around could result in the dog lunging after the hand. This is a golden rule never to be broken for safety reasons.
The second the dog takes the treat the owner calls the dog back and praises and treats. If the dog is left smelling the visitors hand for too long this is often where stress will increase, calling the dog away and then repeating this several times normally makes for a successful outcome.
Crucial to be aware of the dogs body language to determine if the dog was handling the situation or not.
5.Entering the home
When the time comes for going into the home, dog is kept on lead and you (or visitor) walk in ahead of the owner – far enough away that the dog could not lunge toward person and make contact. Often if the dog walks in front of you and there is a bit of resource guarding involved, the dog may start reacting to the stranger.
If the dog does not seem totally comfortable then stop at least once on the way to the home and repeat the meeting exercise again – this often helps to lower stress and changes the manner in which the dog used to meet visitors. If the dog is really stressed at this stage, then repeat the above step several times with perhaps a break in between – it really does depend on the dog and as we say in TTouch ‘where the dog is at’! It is crucial to keep your eye on the dog’s progress behind you by slightly turning your head and even directing the owner where to walk – this way you can see any changes in body language.
6.Inside the home
When in the home, as above, dog is still on lead and you (or visitor) go and sit in the lounge or the place where the family would take visitors. The dog must be a distance away from you so it does not feel threatened but not so far that if it wanted to approach it could.
The procedure of meeting starts all over again in exactly the same sequence, but with you (visitor) sitting down instead. Remember body language while sitting and sit slightly side ward’s, eyes averted etc and even lick your lips or yawn on occasion.
Depending on the dogs reaction the decision is as to whether or not the lead is taken off. If there is any sign of reactive behaviour then I would advise against it. It is also a good thing to keep the interactions short and sweet, and rather do several of them a few minutes apart.
The final step here is when you leave. A lot of dogs will be off lead and happy with visitors in the home but will become threatening or reactive when they are about to leave. Always ask the owner if this happens and even if they say no, request the dog is put back on lead, if the lead has been taken off. You can then stand up, and often this is enough with some dogs for you to see that stress levels have increased.
The same procedure of meeting the dog is then done on the way out is done.
If you feel there is ANY fear of reactive behaviour rather a behaviourist is called in to assist.
When the time comes for going into the home, dog is kept on lead and you (or visitor) walk in ahead of the owner – far enough away that the dog could not lunge toward person and make contact. Often if the dog walks in front of you and there is a bit of resource guarding involved, the dog may start reacting to the stranger.
If the dog does not seem totally comfortable then stop at least once on the way to the home and repeat the meeting exercise again – this often helps to lower stress and changes the manner in which the dog used to meet visitors. If the dog is really stressed at this stage, then repeat the above step several times with perhaps a break in between – it really does depend on the dog and as we say in TTouch ‘where the dog is at’! It is crucial to keep your eye on the dog’s progress behind you by slightly turning your head and even directing the owner where to walk – this way you can see any changes in body language.
6.Inside the home
When in the home, as above, dog is still on lead and you (or visitor) go and sit in the lounge or the place where the family would take visitors. The dog must be a distance away from you so it does not feel threatened but not so far that if it wanted to approach it could.
The procedure of meeting starts all over again in exactly the same sequence, but with you (visitor) sitting down instead. Remember body language while sitting and sit slightly side ward’s, eyes averted etc and even lick your lips or yawn on occasion.
Depending on the dogs reaction the decision is as to whether or not the lead is taken off. If there is any sign of reactive behaviour then I would advise against it. It is also a good thing to keep the interactions short and sweet, and rather do several of them a few minutes apart.
The final step here is when you leave. A lot of dogs will be off lead and happy with visitors in the home but will become threatening or reactive when they are about to leave. Always ask the owner if this happens and even if they say no, request the dog is put back on lead, if the lead has been taken off. You can then stand up, and often this is enough with some dogs for you to see that stress levels have increased.
The same procedure of meeting the dog is then done on the way out is done.
If you feel there is ANY fear of reactive behaviour rather a behaviourist is called in to assist.
7. Modifications
Depending on the questionnaire and what needed to be done in general, the odds are that the following or some of the following modifications would be brought in
Assignment
Depending on the questionnaire and what needed to be done in general, the odds are that the following or some of the following modifications would be brought in
- House Rules (Ignoring, Attention on owners terms , Work to earn - general)
- Work to Earn using day’s allowance of food to increase owners standing in the human /canine social structure. Depending on the dog I would probably use a combination of the Watch (so owner can get the dogs attention) and the Sit exercise.
- If multiple dogs and in the case of this particular dog pushing in for attention, the Away exercise may be brought in.
- NRM – if the dog did tend to lunge or show any threatening behaviour towards visitors, this is where the NRM would be used and possibly with a quick lead correction at the same time. In a case like this I would bring this in as a separate topic rather than include in House Rules.
- A Time Out may be necessary if the NRM above did not work. If so keep it only to 10 seconds initially and remember to set up the exercise close to a place where the Time Out can easily be done (if possible)
- If any resource guarding of owner, other people to take over some of the daily interactions with dog and owner to reduce amount of time and interaction with dog.
- Notes would contain the full Visitors procedure and how important it is to keep on practising this exercise.
- Lead Attachment so that dog could be kept on lead while in the house with visitors – of necessary.
- Check to make sure that physical and mental stimulation in place and give notes on same.
- Depending on the dog’s reaction, the use of a muzzle may be suggested.
Assignment
- When speaking to owner why is it important to determine where a dog first meets visitors?
- What is a critical distance and why is this taken into account?
- Why is it important that it is the dog’s choice to approach visitor, now other way around?
- Why does the owner move the dog away from visitor if dog is not coping, rather that the visitor move away from the dog?
