MODULE 2 - SECTION 4 B - FODS ACADEMY

Canine Behaviour Foundation Course

Module 2 - Section - 4 B - Collar and Lead Problems

1. Problems associated with holding a lead
2. Putting on the Collar on a dog that is fearful of a collar
3. Putting on a lead on a fearful dog
4. Using a harness instead

The majority of dogs will adapt easily to a collar and lead but what do you do when you come across a dog, normally a rescue, that just won’t accept it and will even run away or back up in fear? Some dogs can even become reactive.

Many dogs like this have suffered abuse on a collar and lead and their association with it can really be terrifying for a dog. What we have to realize is that to the dog this fear is very, very real and it can take a lot of work to get the dog rehabilitated to this equipment again.

As it is virtually impossible for us to learn something new when we are stressed and the same applies to dogs, the first step is to get the dog to be calm and quiet. Options would be some TTouch which would help the dog to relax and bringing in one of the Avalon Pure for Dog Sprays, possibly the Extreme Anxiety.

We suggest that before considering alternative equipment such as a harness, see if it is possible to desensitize the dog to having a collar on. The reason for this is that it would be better for the dog to totally overcome the fear rather than offering an alternative – if the dog is ever at the vet or is lost, the chances of somebody having a harness available (or even thinking of putting one on) would be slight to nil, and the collar being put on would cause the dog to stress more and possibly run away or become reactive.

If the dog is totally resistant to desensitizing to the collar and a harness has to be used instead - wait a few weeks until the dog is happy on the harness and going out for walks, and then try the desensitizing to the collar again - this is often a lot easier to achieve.

1. Problems associated with holding a lead

In your practical sessions you will be shown the correct manner in which to hold a lead working with two points of contact and a single lead and here we will show you some of the ways that people hold leads which not only encourage the dog to pull, it can result is serious physical damage for the owner.

Owner will wrap the lead around the hand repeatedly – if dog takes off owner is often dragged behind and hand can sustain damage and owner often trips or falls and on occasion dislocated shoulder
Owner slips lead over their wrist – broken wrist on occasion.
A common way taught is to loop the lead loop over the thumb and then clasp your fingers around the lead. If the dog is a strong puller this is not effective.
Owner holds lead correctly with right hand but instead of sliding whole of left hand down lead when requesting the dog to stop, they loop lead under a finger – broken finger on occasion
In trying to stop the dog the owner will lift the arm and hand higher and higher – there is a standard dog joke about how do you turn a dog into a giaffe – this is how!
Owner continually holds the lead tight which causes the dog to be in a continual opposition pulling reflex mode

So when working with a single lead how should we proceed?

Place the hand in the handle over 4 fingers with the thumb sticking out in right hand
Gather the lead in your hand with the lead extending from the bottom
The thumb is then placed gently over the clasped hand.
The lead should not be held tightly
The left hand can then be placed on the lead when requesting the dog to stop.

2. Putting on the Collar on a dog that is fearful of a collar

First step is to change the collar to another one that looks nothing like the one the owner or shelter has tried to put on already. The collar must be very soft and of the buckle variety as not only is it easier to put on in stages, if the dog backs up or reacts it is easier to get off. Trying to put a half choke/martingale collar (by slipping over the head) on a dog scared of collars is setting yourself up for failure. Desensitizing would be done as below and we suggest talking softly and gently to the dog as you are working. Bringing in a product such as the Avalon Pure range would help the process considerably, as would some TTouch being done on the dog before starting.

If you find the dog just cannot cope, then start with a piece of ribbon or shoelace initially and use the Avalon Pure on this piece of equipment. Although with many dogs you can achieve success in one session, even then it is good to have regular breaks in-between with some fun being had by throwing the ball or similar.

Start off by stroking gently along the neck area and offer a treat each time you touch the dog. This will help the dog to relax and is preparing the dog for collar being placed on the neck. As it changes the pattern of how a collar may have been put on before, this can help to change the dogs association with the collar.
Have a handful of nice smelly treats and just show the dog the collar and let it smell it then treat. Repeat this over and over until there is no resistance at all from the dog.
Your next step is to place the collar next to the side of the neck (not underneath) and treat the second the collar touches the skin. Keep on doing this until the dog is 100% happy with this stage.
Next, just lay the collar on the back of the neck with one hand and offer a treat with the other. It is normally at this stage that if the dog is going to react it will. Some dogs will back away, others will freeze, some will suddenly sit – watch the body. If the dog does react, give it a break and remember that when the collar disappears the treats do as well! You may have to do this stage a few times until the dog can accept the collar on the back of the neck.
When the above has been achieved, you then lay the collar on the back of the neck falling down the sides, and leave it there a second or two, treating all the time. Take it off and repeat over and over – this will also help the dog to get used to the collar being put on.
Before you take the next step, make sure that the collar will fit loosely around the dog’s neck by measuring with your hands.
Place on the back of the neck again, and it will now be hanging down the sides of the dog’s neck. With one hand bring the two ends together (on the side of the neck, not underneath) and treat with the other hand. Do this over and over.
Placing the collar again (and remember not to bend over the dog) on the side with one hand, and treating with the other, slip the end through the buckle and just leave it there - it is through the buckle but not fastened fully. At this stage I will go totally overboard with praise and jackpots. Take it off, put it on, over and over (yes, you will hear me saying this a lot!) until the dog is 100% comfortable. At this stage you do not do up the buckle, just leave it like this.
Stand up, walk a few steps and call the dog showing the treats. Treat and repeat repeatedly. The dog should now be completely relaxed and comfortable with the collar. Bend down next to the dog and while treating, do up the buckle, but keeping the collar very loose at this stage. Again walk away a few steps and call and treat. You are almost there!
Practice putting it on and taking it off, going as slow as you need to. Every single dog is different and some will be wearing a collar in no time at all, while others will take a few sessions.
At the end of the session, take the collar off and give the dog some time out. It is better not to attach a lead until the dog is totally comfortable at this stage. The progress will depend completely on the dog - with some dogs you can achieve the collar being put on in one session, with other dogs it may take a few sessions - always work at where the dog is comfortable.
Before you attempt the lead, you need to make sure that the dog is completely happy with the collar. Start by touching it in various places (always offer a treat at same time), gradually put a bit more pressure on it, lift it, pull gently on it, turn it around on the neck etc.
You can then start to make it a bit tighter, but not too tight.

Below are some pictures of Oreo who was a rescue at Wolfshaven. No matter what was done, if Oreo even saw a collar he ran away absolutely screaming. I had him in a collar within half an hour using this simple method. It was practiced daily by the staff and the following week when I saw him again, we were able to start the lead being attached.

Orea smelling the collar whist receiving treats

(Oreo being lured with the collar on with treats)

(Collar on back of neck and hanging down while treats are given)

(Oreo totally happy with pressure being put on the collar and with it being lifted and played with)

4. Putting on a lead on a fearful dog

After you have done the steps above, the putting on of the lead is so much easier. If the dog is coping well with the collar, you can even try immediately if it is absolutely necessary and the dog has coped well - but do have a break in-between and it is preferably to do this in a few sessions. Also start off from the beginning each time and work up - it will now be very quick.

Start off by using a very light lead, such as one used for a cat and it needs to be longer than usual with a very light clasp. Start to desensitize the dog by clipping it on, treat, take it off, treat. Move it up and down with no pressure. Yes, you get the idea, over and over!
If you have a dog where it just can’t cope with the lead – then get hold of one of the very light Lanyard’s with a clip and use this instead as a starting point.
When the dog is happy with the above, just drop the lead on the floor. Make sure you do this in an area whereby the lead cannot get caught on anything. Again, treat and pick up the lead, drop the lead. We are aiming here at the dog getting used to the weight of the lead and the feeling of it being attached.
Next step is leave the lead on the floor, take a few steps. Offer the dog a treat and give it to him as he comes to you. Repeat several times.
Now stand up next to the dog, holding the lead loosely and using a treat as a lure, lure the dog a few steps forward and treat. It is important to do this in short bursts to build up confidence.
If the dog tries to pull against the lead at any time, DO NOT pull backwards. Rather just drop it on the floor and go back a stage. Do the same if the dog just suddenly sits – this is showing you the dog is not coping. You can do a bit of TTouch to reassure the dog. If the dog goes into a freeze when walking, stop, do some TTouches or strokes on the legs to remind the dog it can still move. As soon as you get the dog moving again, stop the session and give the dog a break. Remember to always stop on a successful note!
Gradually build up the distance and use the lure until you have the dog walking next to you. If this is done properly, it is very seldom that dogs like this every pull on the lead.

(Oreo getting used to a lead being moved around)

(Oreo being lured to walk with the lead trailing)

(Oreo being walked on a loose lead)

3. Using a harness instead

As mentioned above, I prefer to help the dog to completely get over its fear of a collar, but if this is not possible, or the dog is accepting it but not really comfortable, then a harness can be considered. Even though’ this route may be the one that is best for the dog, I still encourage shelter and owners to keep the practice up with the collar due to the reasons mentioned above.
The harness I prefer is the Step-In harness as there is no need to put the harness over the dogs head at all.

Start off with the TTouch as above, also working over the body.
Next place a wrap (used in TTouch) or bandage loosely on top of the dogs shoulder, hanging down. Treat while you are doing this and do repeatedly. The Wrap or bandage is not tied tightly at all - rather it just gently makes contact with the dog.
Slowly place the wrap or bandage across the chest and over the back, again treating.
Leave in place here until the dog is comfortable before going further
Next step is to continue with wrap or bandage, under the stomach and gently secure it, keep on treating.
Depending on who the dog is reacting, try to get the dog used to the wrap being taken off and on and walking a few steps while luring, or else I will continue with putting on the Step-In.
As you don’t want to be fiddling with tightening the harness while on the dog, with the step in it is very easy to work out if it will fit without clasping it on.

Hold wide open under the tummy.
Measure this section under the front legs to see if it will clasp on top. If not adjust it now and make the section that will fit across the front of the chest the same measurement. There is seldom a lot of difference between these two measurements.
Test it again under the front legs.
Now test the section that goes across the chest and up the shoulder to see if it fits when clasped.

Now place in front of the dog’s front feet and while stroking down the leg and on the paw, lift one paw up and place inside. Then do the same with the second paw and gently lift it up and secure at the top. I do find it is easier to put on a harness first time while the wrap is still in place.
You will now follow the same routine of luring the dog forward to get used to it on the body, touching the harness near the top clasp, lifting it and putting pressure on it, initiating the feel of the lead.

Finally you will follow the same steps as putting on the lead above.

Place loosely over shoulders and treat

Bring around the front of the chest - cross over the back and let it hang - keep on treating

Take under the tum and tie loosely

If the dog will not accept the Harness being put on by itself, go back a step to the Wrap procedure and place the Harness on over the Wrap

Assignment

You come across a dog that is fearful of having collar put on but due to physical problems cannot use a harness. What is the first thing you would do with the collar?
Give a brief summary of how you would desensitize a dog to having a lead attached to the collar.

(Oreo being lured to walk with the lead trailing)