MODULE 1 SECTION 6 A

Canine Behaviour Foundation Course

Module 1 - Section - 6 A - General Theory & Puppies

1. Chewing and Toys
2. Kennels or Home Care?
3. Teaching a Pup to Swim
4. Dogs in Complexes
5. Free Play
6. The Importance of Puppy School
7. Car Sickness

Green for pups (softer) and purple for older dogs - brilliant!

Chewing and Toys

Inappropriate chewing is a very common problem, but what we need to understand is that chewing for a dog is a natural behaviour, and is bound to happen, especially with puppies. In his excellent book “Before & After Getting your Puppy” (link at end) by Dr. Ian Dunbar, he advocates that all puppies should become ‘chewaholics’! I certainly agree with him and have used this method on countless occasions, both with my own and client’s puppies and adult dogs, and have never been disappointed. Basically we are giving the dog only ‘legal’ chewable toys and making this his favourite habit. It allows a dog to settle quietly, chewing helps to de-stress, exercises jaws and teeth and is excellent for a teething puppy. If we teach our pups to only chew on certain ‘legal’ objects then we will provide entertainment and cut down on the possibility of puppy chewing on inappropriate items.

Many of my clients tell me that their dogs have balls, ropes, stuffed toys etc but hardly ever play with them – I am not surprised! All they are talking about in inanimate objects, they have no life of their own, but a delicious chewy that the dog can really ‘get stuck into’, provides essential entertainment and help with frustration.

I have had clients who swear that their dogs chew up the furniture etc just to spite them! Not true, a dog will chew out of boredom, frustrations, anxiety, if it is teething, or, and this happens often, the reaction from the client – this will also be discussed at a later stage. The following can be used for both puppies and adult dogs. Dogs exhibiting reactive behaviour when chews or toys are around will be discussed in a separate section.

It is not necessary to spend a fortune on expensive chew toys, you can make your own, by filling a hollow object (such as a marrow bone or Kong) with dog food that has been soaked overnight so that it expands and the appearance is mushy. Smear honey around the inside of the marrow bone or Kong. The honey acts as an antibacterial agent then seal the top with a biscuit and leave the dog to chew to his heart’s content. After your dog gets the hang of chewing at this you can freeze it making another Kongsicle (Dr. Ian Dunbar) which will help with teething. A raw marrow bone can be used for this as well. Ask your butcher to cut it much longer than normally found in the shops (about 3/4 inches) and take the marrow out – this is just too rich for a puppy.

Another favourite is to take a 500ml empty water bottle. Boil the kettle, measure out 450ml and to this add a teaspoon of either Bovril or Marmite. Allow to cool, pop several small treats or pieces of dog food in the empty bottle and then add the cooled mixture and freeze. The reason why 450ml as opposed to filling the bottle, is that it will expand in the freezer. Initially you may have to cut the bottle in half till your dog gets the hang of it. This is excellent for sore teething gums but it is recommended that it is given outside! Simply pick up and throw away the chewed plastic before the dog ingests it. Being slightly neurotic about my dogs swallowing things myself, I normally take the top off the bottle and these are the types of chew toys I give when home so that I can keep an eye on it. . Dogs appear to love the noise that an empty water bottle makes (squeaky) and they can roll it and play with it which I believe mimics, to a certain degree, what happens with prey. If necessary, you can start with a smaller plastic bottle for a pup, depending on the size of the pup.

You can also use the water with marmite method by following above and instead of putting in a plastic bottle, put in an empty Tupperware with some pieces of kibble and treats and then freeze it – pop this out on the grass and what pup lick to hearts content – also helps with sore gums.

Keep an eye on what your dog is chewing and how chewed the object is - taking it away before it can become dangerous will go a long way to avoiding problems. Another way to make any object for chewing more appealing is to smear the inside of it with organic peanut butter (always use organic as peanut butter in large amounts can be toxic to dogs), stick a piece of biltong right in the bottom, really jammed in, and the dog will have great fun trying to get it out. Nearly all stuffed chewies can be frozen, turning them into ‘kongsicles’!

Another favourite is a large raw ox femur which you can get from the butcher. The bigger the bone the better as small bones can be extremely dangerous due to splintering. Avoid cooked bones as they tend to break and splinter much easier. I personally use this as the training bone for when a dog is being left alone outside at training times. The joy the dog has when he sees it returning is lovely and he can’t wait to get into the garden to get at his favourite bone! A word of warning here, don’t give these to young pups as it will upset their tummies, rather keep this particular chew toy for older dogs. Many of the pet shops sell a large Ostrich femur which has been smoked. This is excellent for older dogs and does not go off as quickly due to the smoking, but I would not recommend it for a young pup. Again, one has to be very careful when it comes to leaving bones with dogs.

Many of the pet shops have excellent chew toys available as well as toys that can be pushed around the garden and pieces of food fall out.

If children are given a toy for Xmas and spend the whole day playing with it, by the next day they are bored with it and will play with something instead. It is exactly the same with dogs – if they have the same toys every day, they too will get bored. Personally I have three cane baskets and each basket contains a mixture of different chew toys. I rotate these on a daily basis, picking up and putting away what is left at the end of the day. Not only does this keep my dogs entertained, the chewies last much longer.

If you do have a pup that is already chewing on chairs or items, you can purchase a bottle of pure Citronella oil and smear this onto the item being chewed - this is normally sufficient to deter a pup from chewing on these items. There are deterrents for chewing that can be purchased at the vet and pet shops - what has to be remembered is they need to be applied every few days.

Another way to stop a pup from chewing on illegal items it simply management - put away any items the pup is likely to chew on such as shoes, cushions, socks etc.

Below are 3 example of chew toys that contain food and you can see that Willow has given her stamp of approval!

Take care when you buy toys from the pet shops. Although many of these are excellent, some contain small pieces such as squeaky toys which can cause choking and should not be given. Use your discretion and common sense when buying them. What you and your clients need to bear in mind is that any product that is swallowed can cause an upset tummy or even blockages, so the onus has to be on the owner to ensure that the chewy is taken away from the dog before chewed up into small sized bits that can be swallowed.

Some of the toys from pet shops that I recommend are latex toys, Nyla bones, Kong’s, Busy Buddy, Greenies, TChew, beef and ostrich chewies (not for pups) etc. Here are a couple of do’s and don’ts for you to consider for your clients:-

Always supervise the pup/dog chewing especially when first offering
Always take the chewy away before it get too small
Never give a pup a marrow bone full of marrow, it is too rich.
Only purchase top quality chewy toys to ensure that your dog is getting the best possible product with little risk of contamination
Avoid vinyl chew toys. This substance is very hard and does not break down easily and is one of the chew toys that can cause severe obstructions. Either use latex which is more pliable and will pass through the digestive system easier if swallowed.
Always give a chewy that is much bigger than the expected size for the particular breed.
Don’t give pups pig’s ears. They are far too rich for the puppy and can contain salmonella.
Don’t give pups/dog coloured chew bones. These contain additives and can cause allergies and upset tummy.
If the dog has a runny or upset tummy or appears to be itchy after chewing it could be that your dog has an allergy to the product. If this occurs go to the vet and when the problem has cleared up and the dog is healthy again, offer the same product, but only for a short period and then take away and see if there is a reaction. It is better for the vet to be involved with this process.
Never use Rawhide products – if swallowed these swell up and often an operation is required to remove them – dogs have died due to these. Additionally it is an animal product so how was it treated to prevent insect infestation – the same applies to hooves?

Here are the links to the book mentioned above as well as an excellent article on the use of Kong’s to stimulate and entertain both pups and dogs.
Before & After Getting a Puppy: http://www.friendsofthedog.co.za/free-e-books.html
50 ways with Kong’s : http://www.friendsofthedog.co.za/50-ways-with-a-kong.html

KEEPING PUPS AND ADULT DOGS ENTERTAINED

As we all know, pups are busy, busy, busy and have an absolute need to chew! Here are some ideas on how to fill Kong's to give hours of chewing fun in addition to the Kong recipes above. I know your dogs will enjoy this, so do make the effort and remember that you can make Kong's in advance and just pop them in the freezer for easy access - Dr. Dunbar says this is called a 'Konsicle'!

This was forwarded to us and was apparently first sent by Heather Le Plongeon and was originally sourced from a Kong newsletter in 2007. Always make sure your dog does not have an allergy first.

The following Kong stuffing’s are made with one or more human food ingredients:

CHEESY ELVIS: Combine a ripe banana, 3 spoonfuls of peanut butter, and a slice of cheese. Mix until blended well. Fill the Kong and freeze.

MONSTER MASH: Instant mashed potatoes (without the salt) — or leftover mashed potatoes from dinner — mixed with crushed dog biscuits.

DOGGIE OMLET: Combine a scrambled egg, some beef, yogurt, cheese and mashed potatoes all together

FIBER CRUNCH: Combine bran cereal with some peanut butter.

KONGSICLE JERKY POPS: The equivalent of a Popsicle… Seal the small hole of the Kong toy with peanut butter. Fill to the rim with water and a pinch of bouillon (or just use chicken broth instead). Place a stick or two of beef jerky inside. Freeze. (This one gets messy in a hurry, so it’s recommended only for outdoor use.)

GOOEY CHEERIOS: Combine cheerio’s and peanut butter. Freeze.

FRUIT KITTY NOODLES: Mix together some dried fruit, cooked pasta, banana and dry cat food.

BANANA YOGURT: Plain yogurt and mashed bananas. (You can also add a little peanut butter or other fruits.) Then freeze it.

PEANUT BUTTER GLUE: Fill Kong 1/3rd full of dog food. Pour in melted peanut butter (after it has cooled from microwaving). Add more dog food, followed by more melted peanut butter until the Kong toy is full. Freeze until solid.

ROCK-HARD KIBBLE: Combine some of your dog’s regular food with cream cheese, which acts as a cement, keeping everything inside.

STICKY BREAD: Smear peanut butter on a piece of bread. Fold it over and stuff inside the Kong. Mix together plain yogurt with some fruits or vegetables (carrots, celery) and pour inside. Freeze. The yogurt sticks to the bread holding everything together.

APPLE PIE: Squeeze a small piece of apple into the tiny hole. Fill the Kong with a small amount of plain yogurt. Add a few slices of mashed banana, more apple, yogurt, and banana. End with a slice of banana and chunk of peanut butter on the top.

CRUNCH ‘N MUNCH: Combine crumbled rice cakes and dried fruit with some cream cheese and plain croutons.

PUMPKIN PIECES: Combine some plain yogurt, canned pumpkin, and cooked rice in a small baggie. Mix well inside the bag, then snip off a corner of the bag and squeeze it into the Kong toy. Freeze.

KIBBLE-SICLE: Put a glob of peanut butter into the Kong first. Then add some dry dog food. Pour in some chicken broth. Add some more peanut butter, followed by more dry dog food. End with another glob of peanut butter at the very top. Freeze until solid.

OLD STANDBY: Soak some of your dog’s regular food in water (or chicken broth) for a brief time before placing it inside a Kong, then freeze.
MUTT & CHEESE: Melt a cube of Velveeta cheese in the microwave, until it’s gooey — not runny. Fill the Kong toy with cooked noodles. Pour cheese over noodles.

FROZEN BONZ: Mix up some bananas, unsweetened applesauce, oatmeal, peanut butter, and plain yogurt. Freeze.

CHEEZY DELIGHT: Combine small chunks of cheese (or cheese spread) with some dry dog food and microwave until the cheese melts. Let it cool completely, and then pour into the Kong toy. Freeze thoroughly.

CARB DELIGHT: Combine some canned dog food with pasta noodles, rice, mashed potatoes, and some of your dog’s dry dog food. Freeze.

NUT CRUNCH: Take 2-3 dog biscuits and crunch them a bit into very tiny bite-sized pieces. Add a couple spoonful’s of peanut butter. Then add a couple spoonful’s of plain yogurt. Mix in bowl until soft, but not runny. Stuff inside Kong.

BABYLICIOUS: Mix together some fat-free cream cheese, peanut butter, and either sugar free applesauce or a jar of baby food (like bananas, carrots). Cram a solid food item into the small hole at the end of the Kong, and then fill with the mixture. Seal the large hole with either more cream cheese or peanut butter.

FRUITOPIA: Combine applesauce with chunks of fruit. Freeze.

PUPPY TRAIL: Fill the Kong with some cashews (unsalted) and freeze-dried liver bits. Add some dry dog food and/or dog crushed dog biscuits and some Cheerio’s. Drop in a spoonful of peanut butter, followed by some dried fruit. Finally, top it off by using a piece of ravioli or tortellini to close the large opening.

RED ROVER: Smear the inside of the Kong toy with peanut butter. Put a tiny piece of apple into the small hole, and then drop some more apple pieces in next. Drop in a scoop of peanut butter (or cream cheese), then drop in some dog food or broken dog treats. Add another scoop of peanut butter (or cream cheese), then more apples. Plug the large opening with a final scoop of peanut butter (or cream cheese) and freeze.

FROZEN TUNA SALAD: Mix together well: 1 6oz can of light tuna, 2 T. plain yogurt, and 1/4 C. grated carrot. Spoon into KONG toy. Freeze.

2. Kennels or Home Care

Selecting a Kennel for boarding

Remind the owner to do their homework on this and to book well in advance. The best kennels can even be booked up a whole year in advance – bit like the best holiday cottages! If your pup has been crate trained this will make it much easier for the pup or dog to cope with the stay– the crate can be taken with

the dog to the kennel. There are a few kennels who offer extras such as TTouch, and I would definitely recommend checking these out first. The best way to find a kennel for the dog is by word of mouth, from people who have had positive experiences.

Here are some guide lines for owners:-

Always visit the kennels even if recommended, and do so during business hours when you see the everyday comings and goings.
Inspect the current boarders. Do they look happy and well cared for?
In the kennel runs themselves – is there fresh water, are the bowls clean, and are the covered areas sufficiently to protect the dog from all weather conditions.
Smell while walking around. The kennels should smell clean but so to should the area where the dogs are exercised. Although disinfectant may be smelt, this should not be overpowering as if to cover up any unsavoury odours.
Also inspect the area where food is kept. Is this clean and tidy. Is there a system for figuring out which food belongs to whom? The same applies for medication.
If your dog has any storm or fear phobias, be sure to tell the owners and make sure these can be catered for. By the same token, if your dog is an escape artist, let them know.
If your dog has any reactive traits be honest about this. Most kennels are geared to handle dogs that can be reactive and it is better for them to be warned about the possibility.
Is there 24 hour supervision and if so what does it consist of? Does anybody supervise the eating – do they check is the dog has eaten its food?
Find out what arrangements are made for veterinary assistance and if your own vet will not be involved, find out who the vet is, does he make after hour calls, do they take the dog to the vet etc.
Most kennels offer different levels of accommodation. Find out what accommodation would be suitable for your dog and inspect same.
Find out the exercise regime that is used.
If you have more than one dog, will they be kept together or will they be separate?
Are dogs allowed to run together?
In the case of a problem with your dog will you be notified?
Do the kennels have insurance and if so what does this cover. This is especially important in the event of your dog’s medical aid.
Ask if you have to produce your dog’s inoculation certificate and proof of recent de-worming and tick and flea control. If not, leave immediately!
Once a kennel has been chosen for future boarding for your pup, start the process of leaving the pup there for short intervals of time and gradually building up the time period to avoid location separation anxiety.

Home Care or Pet Sitting

This can take the form of people that come in twice a day to check up on your pet or having somebody live in with your dog while you are away. One of the main benefits of this is that as the pup/dog is in its own environment, stress levels will be reduced.

The majority of people who do this type of work also water plants; take the dog to the vet if necessary etc. It would be a good idea to obtain, in writing, exactly what duties the person will do.

Some of the things to think about:-

Have an interview with the person before their services are engaged.
Ask for written references with telephone contact numbers and phone these people.
What qualification of dog knowledge does the person have – ask for this in writing.
Go over exactly what you want done. In the case of the dog being walked daily, have a trial run and get the person to go for a walk with you and the dog to see if they can cope with the dog and know what they are doing.

Write down the services you expect i.e. feeding twice daily, spending half hour with dog playing, twice daily phone calls etc and ask the person to sign this if you decide to accept their services.

Be honest about any problems your dog may have, either physically or from the behaviour aspect and make sure these areas are covered. Ensure that the contact info of your vet is given (advise your vet as well that a pet sitter will be looking after your dog) and even give the contact info of a family member or close friend who can step in for any problems to be solved.
Find out which vets refer the person and phone the vet.
The person should also be asking you questions in return and should be interested in your dog and routines. If you are not comfortable with the person, then extend your search.
If possible ask a friend or family member to check in while you are away to make sure everything is running smoothly.
Find out if the person will phone you daily or if you can phone them.
Have all the information on hand relating to your dog in the event it gets out of the property. Your vet number, the number of the local shelters, a picture, microchip number etc.

3. Teaching a Pup to Swim
What people don’t realize is that a pup (or a dog) can either get under a pool cover or fall right through it. If you do have a pool, it is far safer to teach your pup to swim. In addition to this being a safety aspect, the dog can be exercised when you don’t have time to take it out for a walk. In the event of the dog developing hip dysplasia or similar, the dog can be exercised without putting any undue pressure on the joint. Dogs are basically land mammals and the majority of them are not born with the knowledge of how to swim so it will have to be taught. Dogs such as the Portuguese water dog and some retrieving breeds seem to take to water like the proverbial duck to water.

It is best to check with your own vet as to what age they recommend the pup learns to swim as there are many different opinions on this. The most important thing is not to rush this, take it slowly so that the pup gains confidence and does not panic. If you do have access to a stream or river that is shallow enough, where the pup can chase you while you run through the edge of the water, run after a ball etc, do try this, it does make the introduction easier. If you have an existing dog that can swim, have the older dog go into the water first. Pups will often follow the lead of an older dog, but be with the pup and help to hold it until it is secure enough to swim by itself.

Before the pup is of the age to start swimming, accustom it to splashing and playing in a child’s paddling pool or one of the plastic shell shaped sandpits. This will ensure that there is less fear when the pool work starts. A word of caution here, if the surface is very slippery, put some non-slip rubber material at the bottom to prevent the pup slipping and falling.
If the pup is going to be of middle or large size, wait till it can stand on the top step before starting the introduction to the pool.
Get into the pool yourself and have somebody hand the puppy down to you. Let it stand on the step and with your finger on the collar, let it walk back and forward, even playing with a light ball that will float, offering treats and praise. Don’t rush this stage, the more comfortable the puppy is at this state, the easier it will be to get it starting to swim.
The next step is to step slightly away from the step holding the puppy with your hand under the pelvis and chest. Slowly lower it into the water facing the step (not letting go) keeping the head out of the water and the hindquarters and front legs free so that it can do the ‘doggy paddle’. As it gets its paws onto the firm ground of the step, say ‘step’ and go totally overboard with praise and play a bit at the shallow end Take this very slowly not increasing the distance until the puppy is totally comfortable. Bringing in the cue ‘step’ will get the pup to associate the way out of the pool. The pup is ONLY taken into the pool at the step area as this will help it to associate this as the way out.
Practice this as often as possible, gradually building up the distance and staying in the pool yourself to supervise. Realize that if a pup does sink under the water, it will not come up by itself! I myself have brought in a command ‘swim’ whenever I allowed Brady in the pool. This has resulted in having a dog that swims mostly on command; otherwise he was not allowed to swim. On a very hot day he would occasionally go for a dip himself, but it was the exception, rather than a rule and it seemed he only did this when we were home.
In order that the pup retains this new skill, it needs to be practiced as much as possible. When the pup is really proficient and has matured a bit, you can start to have ‘fetch’ games in the pool.

The majority of pups will appear to splash and only use their front legs initially, rather than swim which is really not very effective, so make sure you are involved in the exercise sessions. Only one bad experience (one event learning) can result in a pup refusing to get back into the water. If a pup is introduced to the water after 6 months of age, it seems to take longer to get used to it, so do start the preparation as young as possible and when your vet advises.

Contrary to popular belief, not all dogs can learn to swim. It may be that the dog is overweight and breeds such as Bulldogs, Bull Terrier and the French bulldog are well known for swimming ‘like rocks”. We have had three Bull Terriers over the years and despite repeated swimming lessons they never mastered the skill. However two of these 3 enjoyed stepping down to the first step and cooling themselves off in the water.

Another point owners should bear in mind is to start the pool work when the water and weather is warm. A lot of dogs don’t like cold water and it may not be the swimming they don’t like, but rather the temperature of the water.

4. Dogs in Complexes

Although we all know how much benefit owning a dog brings, we should all be aware that there are possible health hazards. When a disease is passed from an animals to a human, this process is called zoonosis and the normal precautions such as picking up stools, having our dogs inoculated, ensuring they don’t have a flea or tick problem will help prevent this. However, when there are multiple pets in a complex, extra care needs to be taken. Diseases can be picked up from animal to animal by droplets which are produced through sneezing, coughing and from salmonellas (caused by any one of the salmonella bacteria and is more common in immature puppies and pregnant bitches). Pets can even catch this from us, as well as become contaminated by ringworm or worms. If we can catch diseases such as these from our pets in our own homes, imagine how much more prevalent the problem becomes in complexes and here we are talking dogs, not dogs and cats!

So often, because town houses have small gardens, people immediately think ‘small dogs’ often with disastrous results! The most common breeds I come across in complexes with behaviour problems are Jack Russell Terriers. A Jack Russell is a wonderful spunky little dog, but is very much a working breed (best with an experienced owner), and they need lots of exercise and stimulation. Keeping them locked up in a small garden, often with no view to the outside, and not enough stimulation and exercise, ends up with a multitude of behavioural problems.

The second most common problem dog I come across in complexes is the Dachshund. These too can be lovely, laid back little dogs and tend to appear almost clown like at times, but they can be very strong willed, don’t seem to like small children and are very prone to separation anxiety. What owners often do is to get another dog to keep the existing dog company. Ever heard of Double Trouble? Well, that is exactly what will occur. The new addition will end up copying the behaviour (Allelomimetic behaviour) of the existing dog and before the owner knows what is happening they will have two problem dogs!

The third most common breeds I see for behaviour problems in complexes are Chihuahuas, Yorki’s and the Min Pin. When I was studying these were some of the breeds that were recommended (and often still are) for complexes. Whether it is due to bad breeding, or more likely uneducated owners, I do find that this breed tends to exhibit a lot of behaviour problems and I personally, at this stage at least, would not recommend them for complexes.

However, there are a lot of dogs who are suited to life in a small garden and if an owner is prepared to put in the work necessary to keeping the dog stimulated and exercised they do not have to limit themselves in their choice. I know a lady who has a border collie and has a pocket sized garden. She, however, runs approximately 6 km per day and guess what, the dog runs with her! My own, younger Border collie, only used the garden for chasing birds occasionally and elimination purposes – he went for a long walk at least 5 times per week, twice a day. When I was living in Portugal for a year I took my 58kg Rotti with me. We had a small veranda, but Zeus was totally content, he got three walks per day.

In Europe it is very common for people to have German Shepherds, Collies etc living in apartments, but, and this is a very large but, they are taken out daily (often twice or three times) and on these walks will go to dog parks and mix with other dogs. So you can see that if an owner is prepared to put in the work they can have just about any breed and not have any problems. Unfortunately, in South Africa at least, a lot of people do not put in the work they should in order to exercise and stimulate their dogs, so in these instances, I would recommend that they consider some of the breeds below which will adapt better to limited space.

No matter what dog is chosen, it is vitally important that the owner gets the best the breed has to offer and takes the dog to puppy socialization and continues to keep the socialization up and that the dog will receive ample stimulation and exercise.

The more common behaviour problems encountered in complexes

Barking, Whining, Howling
Aggression – all types
Anxiety & Frustration
Digging
Destructive Behaviour
Separation Anxiety
Demanding Behaviour
Inappropriate Elimination
Escape Artists
Various Phobias

Although the above can be exhibited in varying degrees, they need to be attended to as soon as they have started in order to prevent them getting worse and harder to modify. There is also the possibility that they will progress into more serious behaviour disorders such as the following:-

Allotrophagia (Pica) – high intensity of ingestion of non-food items. Although some diseases such as Rabies and Lead poisoning bring about changes in the brain that can cause compulsive material/object ingestion, it is much more likely to be due to compulsive or stereotypic behaviour. Bear in mind that in pups this is more likely to be a natural behaviour, not compulsive.
Corprophagia – eating of own or other animal’s faeces.
Ingestion Disorders – such as gluttony or in the more highly strung small breeds, they can, in some cases appear to be suffering from anorexia and may not eat for about two days at a time.
Compulsive Behaviour – this is when the dog cannot seem to control its own conduct. Examples of this are, snapping the air (even though there are no flies etc in the vicinity), excessive licking, barking monotonously without any change whatsoever in volume or tone.
Stereotypical behaviour – this is when the dog engages in repeated patterns of behaviour that appear to serve no purpose at all. Examples of this are pacing,

running in circles, chasing the tail around and around.

Self-Mutilation – this is when a dog will either lick or bite itself excessively and can cause damage to the skin and underlying tissues. This is something that must always be checked by a vet, as one of the signs of an underlying carcinoma is often licking where the affected area is. Another common one is flank sucking – this often has a genetic factor involved and there is also Acral lick dermatitis which is often called lick granuloma. Dogs with this will lick incessantly.

All of the above will be dealt with in detail in the Problem Behaviour section.

How to Choose a Dog for a Complex
The very first thing a prospective owner needs to do is to check with the body corporate if dogs are allowed, what are the by-laws governing same and what breeds are permitted.

Small Breeds

Pug – I find that this breed is becoming more and more popular and with this breed, I am seldom called in for behaviour problems in complexes. They are very affectionate dogs and do require exercise, but due to their squashed-in faces (Brachycephalic breeds), do not need as much as other breeds. They can get winded easily so if the complex contains a lot of stairs I would not recommend them.
Bichon Frise – These are clever little dogs and do not require excessive exercise. They look a lot like the poodle and are very affectionate.
Poodle –The best are the Toy or Miniature Poodle. Although the Standard Poodle is known to be good with children they do tend to be more energetic than their small counterparts.

French bulldog – This breed is becoming a lot more popular and has similar breathing problems as the pugs (, Brachycephalic breeds) so the exercise requirements are less. Beware, they can have a lot of ‘attitude’ and can be very stubborn.
Lhasa Apso - This breed is becoming better known in SA and overseas is a popular choice for complexes. They do not require a lot of exercise but they do require a lot of grooming!
Schipperke – When I was a child (a long time ago) one of the most popular smaller breeds was the Schipperke. It does require exercise but makes a lovely family dog and is especially good with children. They make excellent watch dogs but have a tendency to be rather wilful and require a lot of early and ongoing socialization.
Pekingese – Another low energy dog, but warn the owner that they have a lot of health concerns as well as require a lot of grooming. Again, this breed is prone to breathing problems due to the shape of the face.

Medium Breeds

Bassett Hound - Bassets are very low-energy dogs but let future owners know that they have a tendency to howl and bark and once a Bassett gets into howling mode, it doesn’t like to stop! They are very laid back and loving.
Basenji- Not a breed often seen but they are very popular overseas. They look a little like a fox and do tend to be very energetic but they do not bark! Instead they have other unusual vocalizations such as yodelling, howl, growl or crow.
Whippet - The Whippet is great for a complex providing it gets daily exercise. If this happens they seem to be happy to spend the rest of the day quietly. They are affectionate dogs but do tend to be rather timid as a whole. If your personal taste is for a larger dog, don't fear. There are large breeds which are ideal for apartments as well!

Large Breeds

Newfoundland –Nuffies – When I see one I always think of a large Teddy Bear. They do require regular exercise and grooming, but are very good with children and very affectionate.
Mastiff - There are two different breeds of Mastiffs. There are Bull Mastiffs and Mastiffs. They are really big and have sagging skin on their faces that gives the ‘hang dog’ look. Although they do not need a lot of exercise, they do tend to drool rather a lot and despite the size seem to believe that they are lap dogs! The Bull Mastiff is just a bit smaller and has a Boxer/Bulldog kind of face. Bull Mastiffs have the same temperament and are just as well-suited to complex life.
The Great Dane- is known as one of the largest breeds of dog. While it may seem ridiculous to keep a dog as large as this in a complex, they have relatively low energy and are very loving and playful.
St. Bernard - The St. Bernard is a very well-known breed of large dog. They are similar to the Newfoundland in that they need quite a bit of grooming, but they are large and affectionate. They are well-suited for apartment life as long as you are willing to walk them at least a few times a week.
Old English sheepdog - This breed is one that may not be as common as the others. They are highly recognizable and will certainly gain you a few stares along the way! They require a lot of grooming and care, but they are highly affectionate and are good low-energy companions for your apartment life.

Now that we have explored a lot of breeds that are great for apartment life, let's look at a few you will want to stay away from.

Sporting Breeds – These normally have very high energy levels. These include Setters (English, Gordon, Irish), Retrievers (Golden, Labrador, Chesapeake Bay), and Pointers (Vizslas, German Shorthaired, English). There are of course, other breeds but the above tend to be the worst for complex living and would be better with large gardens and additional exercise.
Hounds – (with the exception of the Basset) Hounds tend to be very energetic and are known for their barking and baying which does not always go down well in complexes! Some of these breeds include Coon Hounds (Black and Tans, Blueticks, Plott and Walker). They also include Greyhounds. Beagles are also not suggested as they can be very loud and active although they are wonderful with children.
Herding Breeds - Most herding breeds are very high energy, and will be very bored in a complex unless the owner engages in a serious exercise regime. Some of these breeds include Collies, Border Collies, Bearded Collies and Shetland Sheepdogs. Any of these breeds could develop destructive behaviour living in an apartment.
Siberian Huskies – These are working, sledding dogs and I find that this breed is one of the ones that does the best when it works at what it was bred for. If not, they tend to become very destructive and vocal.
Dalmatians - This breed is a really high energy breed and the majority I have come across (normally paired with wrong owner) seem to be very high strung and destructive behaviour is often seen.
Terriers - While some Terrier breeds may do okay in apartment life, they are for the most part very energetic and will require a lot of exercise and stimulation. They are also known as barkers, which is not a good choice for complexes.
Guarding Breeds - As mentioned at the beginning, some complexes may not allow you to have certain breeds on the premises. Not only are they often not allowed, but they are not suited for complex life. They are large and require a lot of exercise and time and discipline. These breeds include Rottweiler’s, Bull and Staffordshire Terriers, Doberman Pinschers and American Pit Bull Terriers.

The above is just a guideline. If an owner is prepared to walk the dog consistently morning and evening, then just about any dog will suit a complex.

5. Free Play & Play

Free play with other puppies is excellent as long as it is controlled. We need to remember that if a pup gets a big fright while playing with other pups, that this could well affect its later behaviour. If your client is taking their pup to puppy socialization, to please ensure that free play is supervised. I have seen instances where large sized dogs were allowed to bully the smaller breeds resulting in fear behaviour.

Free play is wonderful for pups, not only do they learn to control their bite inhibition, they learn to play with other dogs and games of chase and play fight are thoroughly enjoyed and the pup will receive crucial feedback when it tends to ‘go over the top’.

Research done by Jaak Panksepp has proven that playful interaction with other dogs forms an important part of the pup’s emotional, social and neurological development. Panksepp also says that the more our dogs play as pups, the more impulse control they’ll exhibit as adults. It’s known that dogs that have had fewer opportunities for free play as pups are more likely to exhibit aggressive behaviour as adult dogs.

Where problems sometimes occur is when owners start to interfere either by being pushy and trying to force their pups to play or else grabbing and picking up their pup when any rough play is exhibited. The interaction should be controlled by the instructor who should be qualified to run these classes.

Another area that play should take place in, is with the pups owners. The pup then learns to view its owners as a great source of pleasure and is more likely to grow up liking having humans around. This should not only be limited to the owners, pups should engage in structured games, such as pullies and retrieve games with the different visitors who come to the home. Please note that the owner puts in the rules for these games and supervises them to ensure that they don’t get too rough. The play situation between pup and owners will result in both of you getting to know each other better and if the pup exhibits any fear or other behaviours during play, these can be dealt with there and then, remember prevention is better than cure.

Another point where owners and pups playing can be very beneficial is that it is an ideal opportunity to being in so many different exercises that will benefit both pup and owner. The ‘leave’ command can be used, ‘bite inhibition’ can be worked on, the ‘sit, down, stand’ exercises can be reinforced; the ‘settle’ exercise can be practised, the finished exercise can be used and I also bring in the cue ‘free’ to reinforce at the same time. Actually if you think about it, every single exercise we teach our dogs can be brought into the play situation and it is a well-known fact that all species learn quicker when having fun.

A final point to think about is to bring in the good fun times when the pup is well behaved. If the owner uses play when the pup is misbehaving, it will just reinforce the negative behaviour.

6. The Importance of Puppy School

As was mentioned in an earlier section, In the 1980’s Dr. Ian Dunbar, who is a veterinary behaviourist situated in California totally revolutionized puppy training. Prior to the inception of the SIRIUS® Puppy Training Classes pups only attended puppy school after all their inoculations were completed – thereby missing out completely on the critical 8-16 weeks period.

He also redefined the way in which pups were taught, bringing in the more modern methods of Lure and Reward training, and surprise, surprise, he was the fore runner in starting off lead classes. In fact, apart from the heel and loose lead walking exercises where a lead is put on, all exercises are done off lead. This is a wonderful way of working and in addition to making for excellent socialization for the pups; the owners learn to control their pups in a fun and easy manner without the use of a lead.

Studies conducted by both Dr. Dunbar and Dr. Michael Fox and a few other researcher, showed that if pups were not introduced to a variety of environments and novel stimuli when they were very young, the chances of them growing up fearful and with a total lack of social skills was almost a foregone conclusion and based on the behaviour cases I have worked with, I definitely can confirm this.

There are definite fear periods encountered during the early 16 week period, although the exact period this happens is currently being debated, so avoid scary situations for your pup (being around an aggressive dog for example), being careful to introduce it to these situation in a positive manner to avoid the pup being traumatized.

I was very fortunate to come across Dr. Dunbar’s work early in my canine career and the vast majority of what I use today is based on the manner in which Dr. Dunbar works. My admiration for this man knows no bounds, and as it was unlikely that I would ever get to attend his seminars in America, under the auspices of the ABC of SA, I brought both Dr. Dunbar and his wife Kelly (who is the founder of the brilliant Open Paw Shelter System) out to SA to host seminars in both J’burg and the Cape a few years ago. Of all books and videos that you should read and study, I would highly recommend that you start with Dr. Dunbar’s books and videos. The Dunbar’s passion for their work and the way in which they share it with all, is a lesson that all behaviourist and trainers should employ. It is only by sharing and educating that we will improve the lives of dogs and their owners. I have supplied a link to the Sirius Pup website below as well as a link to Dr. Dunbar’s website Dog Star Daily at the end.

Each and every pup should attend puppy class, regardless of breeds. Many owners of small and toy breeds think that this is not necessary it is! In actual fact, I have more cases of reactive and fear behaviour from the smaller breeds than I do with the larger breeds and the most common reason for the behaviour is that no early socialization was done.

What to look for in a Puppy School

Qualifications. Over all the years I hosted a puppy school, I don’t think I was once asked for proof of my qualifications! You can compare puppy school to sending your toddler to preschool or kindergarten – would you send your beloved child to an institution without checking it out first?? The people running puppy school have to have the highest qualifications that can be obtained in this genre of dogs. They are dealing with your pup during the critical learning period and it is essential that they have the qualification and experience to ensure that you and your pup get the very best you deserve and get you off to a good start. Remember that at this stage in the pup’s development, scary things that happen can have lifelong effects. If a situation such as this occurs during puppy school, the instructor is qualified to get it sorted out immediately. Additionally, the majority of good puppy school instructors I know will encourage you to phone them for any assistance during the week.
Methods of Training Practiced. The majority of puppy schools nowadays do practice the more modern methods of positive reinforcement & Lure and Reward training, but there still are schools that use the harsher methods and this is not what you want to expose either your pup or yourself too - make sure what is taught first!
Go and observe a session or two of the school of your choice first. Puppy school should be relaxed and fun and the instructor should have full control. Off lead interaction between the pups is essential, but have a look if this is being supervised – which is essential, as dogs that are bullies or those that are fearful have to be accommodated for.
If a website is available, read through this carefully first and ask the vets in the area if they recommend clients to this puppy school.
Is there lots of different equipment that can be used? Look for things such as tunnels as used in agility, small jumps, equipment to go over and under etc.
How many pups are in the class? This should be between 4- 8 maximum. More and the class should be split.
Find out exactly what exercises are taught.
Personally, I find it an added benefit if the instructor is passionate about what they are doing. Somebody who regards puppy school as a chore or a part time job is to be avoided.
Determine if sound desensitization is used. As mentioned previously this is an important part of a pup’s habituation process that needs to be attended too and good schools will have CD’s and the like to further assist.
Try and choose a school where children and other animals are present to further your pups existing social skills.
Personally, I prefer schools that are close to busy roads so that the sounds of traffic can be heard.
Does the instructor supply written notes, or a CD supplying basic info?
How does the instructor respond to questions? Is she/he willing to supply the information in a pleasant informative manner without ‘talking down’ to clients?
Speak to the clients at class and ask for their input.
Are the grounds clean and well kept?
Is the area secure?
Is shade available?
Are there water bowls around for thirsty pups?
Are toilet facilities provided for those attending?
Is there safe and secure parking?
Does the school in general look professional?

Sirius Pup - http://www.siriuspup.com/about_history.html
Dog Star Daily - http://www.dogstardaily.com/

7. Car Sickness

If you are getting a pup one of the very first things you can do is to prepare your puppy or dog for car travel as explained in Plan for a Successful Homecoming. However, if you already have a puppy/dog and it suffers from car sickness there are various methods you can employ which are discussed below.

What causes it?
It is highly probable that in over 90% of dogs the car sickness is stress related, not actually motion sickness. The single most important thing that could stick in a pups brain is the first, stress filled car trip when it was taken away from it’ s mother and littermates and this often seems to be a really traumatic experience for a dog, so it is not at all surprising that subsequent car trips can evoke strong reactions.

Receptors in the ear which are called the ‘vestibular apparatus’ help a dog to process movement and position. A dog will experience car or motion sickness if the signals coming in are excessive. These signals are relayed by the 8th cranial nerve directly to the brain. One of the areas these messages are relayed to is called the CRYZ (chemoreceptor trigger zone) and this is one of the zones in that brain that controls the vomiting reflex. A puppy is more likely to develop car sickness as the ear structures used for balance are not fully developed yet.

As the pup’s development takes place it does not always mean that the car sickness will necessarily stop, although in most puppies it does. The dog may be more prone to it than others (as in people) and stress and/or learned behaviour may feature as well – the puppy had a first bad experience of car sickness and the stress of going to a new home, and these experiences may be remembered and the behaviour occur again. Remembering that every time the behaviour occurs, it is reinforced!

Signs of Car Sickness

Dog becomes uneasy and unsettled
A bouncy dog becomes very listless and may have that ‘hang dog’ look
Yawning
Whining
Excessive Drooling, some dogs a lot of panting
Vomiting

What can be done without behaviour modification?

I find TTouch great at helping a pup overcome this problem, especially by applying a wrap after some body work has been done. The wrap helps the pup to feel more secure, thus lowering the stress levels which will be associated with the car.
Since the advent of the Avalon Pure for Dog Sprays came on the market in about 2013, this is one of the first things I will use. This spray has an immediate effect and helps to lower the stress associated with travel.
Lack of ventilation can contribute to the condition, so lower all the windows to about 3 inches. This will equalize the pressure and allow fresh air to come in. A client of mine also found that it was helpful to direct the air vents directly at her dog and this stopped the problem.
Don’t smoke in the car. I once had a client who had a dog that was only sick when the husband was in the car – that had me scratching my head! The hubby was present at the consult and the dog was sitting next to him. He happened to light a cigarette and I noticed that the dog first turned its head away, then got up and moved away. I asked if the hubby smoked in the car, to which he replied in the affirmative. I suggested that next car ride that he refrains from smoking in the car and see what happened, yes; the dog was not car sick again!
Don’t feed a pup for an hour before it goes into the car and don’t eat in the car yourself. Some pups seem to cope with the car better if they have not had a meal close to the departure time. In humans many people who tolerate travelling in a car feel that they cannot cope if they smell anything strong, such as food or gasoline etc.
Some people have dogs that only get into the car if they are being taken to the vet or grooming parlour, so the dogs association of the car is unpleasant and stress related. If I pick this up on a questionnaire, even before I see the client and do behaviour modification for other behavioural concerns, I will suggest that they start to take their dog in the car for a very short distance (to the park for example or just down the road to a piece of open ground) and have a game of ball or a walk and do this every day possible. This very often changes the dog’s perception of the travelling and no further modification is necessary for the car sickness.
Have the pup in a crate or box that it is used too in the home environment. Make this as comfortable as possible. Putting down a thick wad of newspapers under the pup seems to help in some cases. It is believed that the newspaper helps to absorb some of the motion.
An old wives tale (that I have heard helps and that some people swear by) is to give the pup about a ¼ of a ginger biscuit about a half hour before leaving. One of the properties of ginger is that it helps to prevent car sickness.
A rescue tablet or one of the Bach Flower Remedies designed for this purpose may help.
When people suffer from sea sickness, it is believed that it is the movement of the horizon going up and down that cause the ailment. I have clients who ensure that their dogs lie down in the car and this prevents the motion sickness. You could place the pup in its box on the floor, which will be more stable and where it can’t see out. Alternatively, with a larger dog, you can put the new ‘window socks’ on the windows which may help.
Laugh, sing and joke when in the car with your pup and even play music. As music helps a stressed dog with storm phobia, it also helps in car sickness.
Practice short trips, even just around the block and build up the distance as the pup
Be calm yourself. The more stressed you are the more the pup is going to pick up on it and be affected accordingly. If you are worried about having vomit all over your car, invest in one of the washable dog blankets. These are placed over the front head rests and on the back headrests and almost form a sling type affair in the middle. They are made from a water proof material, so any spills can be easily cleaned up and you can put them in the washing machine. Also, don’t label your dog by saying ‘my dog is always sick in the car’ – it will be!
Although we said previously that food should be avoided, with some pups to provide entertainment in the car by way of a nice big chewy bone to get its teeth stuck into. Ensure that it is the type where it can’t pull pieces off that can be swallowed and is of a large size to prevent swallowing. I suggest to clients that this bone only be given when the pup is going in the car. This makes the bone a much more desirable object and the trip in the car something to be enjoyed. Each and every dog is different and sometimes it is only a matter of trial and error to find out what works for that particular dog.
When I was a child I suffered badly from car sickness which I thankfully grew out of. The only time it now affects me is if I face backwards when travelling – I immediately feel ill. This does not matter what method of transport I use, so having your pup face forward may assist.
Another method told to me by a friend recently, but which I have never tried myself, is to attach a rubber strip to the bottom of the car. This needs to be long enough to hang on the ground and the theory is that this will eliminate any static electricity (it has not been proven that it is static electricity that causes the problem).

What I have seen, is that different methods work for different dogs, so try them out, one at a time with your pup and see what works.

What you can do – behaviour modification
If you have a pup or dog which is sick on a regular basis you may be dealing with a problem which could have been caused by either stress, trauma or has become a conditioned response and this is your first step to address – lower the stress.

Make the time in the car an exciting and fun time for the puppy. Put in a blanket or car seat cover and feed the pups meals in the car. Give the pup a favourite bone or chew toy to get stuck into and ONLY let the pup have this when it is in the car.

You have to go in stages with this exercise and firstly get the pup used to sitting in the car and enjoying the experience. Depending on how stressed the pup gets in the car, you could be dealing with a pup that goes into panic when it is even near the car, or one that only gets ill when the car starts moving. Whatever the situation start right at the beginning (as with the full notes below) and get the pup to associate being in the car with wonderful things such as the bone or chew toy mentioned above. Initially leave the car doors open so that the pup feels it can come and go as it pleases, and if necessary you can sit in the driver’s seat and read a magazine or listen to the radio.

Medication. If the pup or dog has really bad car sickness I would consider the use of medication, especially in conjunction with the behaviour modification. Personally my favourite is the Avalon Pure for Dogs Travel spray, but also speak to the vet and see what particular remedy he would consider, depending on the severity of the condition. You will only need to medicate, with most dogs, on a temporary basis. Once the condition has been overcome, your vet may advise you to start reducing the dosage until it has stopped altogether.

Management. If you always use your own car to take the pup/dog out in, do the behaviour modification in your hubby’s car instead. Owners do not realize how much a change of circumstances can help. Once the dog has been desensitized in your hubby’s car, start the procedure all over again in your own car. You can even try and park the car the dog normally travels in, in a different location; this alone can help with the association.

If a pup/dog is fearful of getting into a car you will start as follows:-

Start feeding the pup/dog close to the car with the door of the car open and owner sitting inside the car.
Once pup/dog is happily eating in this manner, put the food in the car where the pup/dog is going to eat and let the dog eat there. Do this at all mealtimes. The owner again sits in the front.
Now take the work a step further and start tossing in treats for the pup/dog to jump in and get.
When the pup/dog is doing this with no stress, pop in a large sized chewy bone which has been liberally smeared with peanut butter (remember large amounts of peanut butter can be toxic to dogs, rather use the organic peanut butter) in the cracks with a few pieces of biltong stuck in cracks as well. If the dog shows no interest, for a few days keep on doing the work above and in the interim give the dog the spiked chewy a few times a day and take the chewy away when it is really enjoying it. This will ensure that the chewy takes on great importance to the dog. Do this several times until the dog is contentedly chewing each and every time, remembering to take the chewy away when the exercise is over. All this time, the owner is sitting in the front driver’s seat. If the dog is not food driven, this whole exercise can be done with a ball or squeaky toy instead, with the owner throwing the object in and out the car, having a game of pullies in the back seat and letting the dog keep the object in its mouth. I find that when this happens, it is advisable to use the dog’s most favourite toy, but it is only gets to play with it when this work is being undertaken.
Next step is to repeat as above and when the dog is happily chewing, owner starts the engine, but just sits with the car idling. If the dog accepts this, the back door is closed and the pp/dog is left to chew for a few minutes. Repeat this step over and over, taking it slightly further with the owner shutting the back door as soon as the dog has settled with the chewy.
Now repeat the above but this time the owner will move the car up and down the driveway a few times. Don’t go too quickly; let the pup/dog get used to this before taking it further. If at any time the dog starts to stress, go back to the sequence it was comfortable with and build up slowly from there.
The owner to locate a park/open ground etc a few minutes away from the home and this time the owner drives directly there, gets out, walks the pup/dog, plays ball and both have a good time. Owner puts pup/dog back in the car with the chewy and they return home. If the pup/dog was only sick after about 15-20 minutes car drive for the first time, then ensure that the owner keeps all trips under this period while doing the behaviour modification and don’t take the dog on a long trip until they are totally sure that the car sickness has been overcome.
The last point is done over and over again until the dog is happy and then the owner slowly builds up the distance. For the time being, the owner avoids trips to the vet or places the pup/dog does not like and looks for roads that are straight rather than curvy and hilly and if possible the road is in good repair, otherwise the trip may contribute to car sickness.
If the pup/dog does not cope with the above, have somebody in the car with the pup and repeat all the points. When the pup/dog gets to the stage that it is happy going out, then the owner goes all the way back to the beginning of the moving the car stage, but without anybody else in the car.

This does sound like a lot of work, but with a bit of commitment a pup/dog can get used to the car in a few days, some even quicker.

If the pup/dog is happy to get in and out the car, just start at point (d) and work from there. Similarly, if the pup/dog is only sick about 15-20 minutes from home (or a certain time period), the owner can again start from point (d) above.

Older Dogs
Sometimes an older dog suddenly develops car sickness. This is normally when the dog is suffering from age related pain such as hip or back problems. Here you need to make your dog as comfortable as possible and if he objects to being picked up due to pain, make a step, so that the older dog can enter the car by himself. I find that with older dogs if I put a rubber type material where it sits it is happier, as it has a firm surface under its feet and if your dog will tolerate it, condition the dog to being in a car harness which will make it feel secure as well.

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