Canine Behaviour Foundation Course
Module 1 - Section 4 - Breeds, Breeders
Module 1 - Section 4 - Breeds, Breeders
1. Points for Clients to consider
2. Owners Responsibility
3. Choosing the breed
4. Breeds
2. Owners Responsibility
3. Choosing the breed
4. Breeds
For those of you who are aiming at having a career with dogs, not only will you be working with dogs exhibiting problem and unacceptable behaviours, you will also be asked for advice when people are considering getting a puppy – unfortunately not enough people do research in this area. For this reason, you need to know what questions to ask the potential owners. Some people feel a bit embarrassed about asking people so many questions – ‘surely as adults they have already thought about these things’ we are often asked. No! They haven’t – if they had we would have a lot less dogs in shelters! If you are doing this course for yourself and to know more about your dogs, you will be able to advise friends and family and help them to make an informed decision.
I do find that the easiest way to go about this is to talk to the client on the phone and tell them that you are sure they have thought about all these aspects, but maybe there are one or two which you have listed that they never thought off, as training methods and our own lives may have changed with many people being much busier than before. You will then send them some basic questions to look at. This way you are not causing embarrassment, you are helping the client to think about the decision they are about to make. So often people will come back to me and say they had actually forgotten how much is involved – and say ‘thank you’! It is very easy to put together simple questionnaire and notes that you can use for your clients as a standard form and make it as simple as possible, with minimum questions – you can always ask more after you have read it.
Getting a new puppy is an exciting event for an individual or family. However, so often far too little thought is put into the decision. When we bear in mind that we could spend the next 14 odd years (or more) with this dog, it puts a whole new perspective onto the decision to get one. It is a lifetime commitment and not only does the potential owner owe themselves the time to investigate further; the prospective dog deserves the time and energy this involves.
This is not just about the owner or the prospective dog, as a behaviourist you owe it to the canine profession to educate owners. Bear in mind that the majority of dogs end up at Rescue Centre’s between the ages of 9 months to 2 years – no co-incidence that this is the adolescent period. Just think, if we could educate people properly we could very well end up making places such as SPCA, Animal Rescue etc, do the job they should – engage in rehabilitation and rescue dogs from unfit homes and situations, rather than having to euthenase countless unwanted dogs, all of whom only needed a caring and educated owner who had thought through the decision to get a dog first.
Another reason to have as much knowledge as possible (not just on pups but on all aspects of canine behaviour) is that you can take human education of canine behaviour further. We, as behaviourists need to make as much effort as possible to improve people’s knowledge of canine behaviour and the do’s and don’ts involved. This could include giving talks at schools, writing articles, supplying pamphlets for vets to give out, giving vets written information that they can send out via e-mail to their clients, giving talks to their clients, take extra time with your own clients etc. Not only will you be educating people, you will be building your own reputation and forming good relationships with the vets you work with. Don’t become one of ‘those’ people who knock’s owners that bought a back yard bred dog and ended up with problems – be one of ‘those’ people who does something about it – educate people! The majority of people are really fascinated when they learn a little more about dogs.
Many people are doing the ‘wrong’ thing in the way that they train or treat their dogs, simply because they just don’t know any better – don’t judge them, educate them, and in such a manner that does not make your clients feel stupid or that they were possibly bad owners, bring in some choice phrases such as ‘oh gosh we have all been there – how on earth could you have know any better when you did not have the correct information at your finger tips?. We will be doing work on the client relationship at a later stage.
I do find that the easiest way to go about this is to talk to the client on the phone and tell them that you are sure they have thought about all these aspects, but maybe there are one or two which you have listed that they never thought off, as training methods and our own lives may have changed with many people being much busier than before. You will then send them some basic questions to look at. This way you are not causing embarrassment, you are helping the client to think about the decision they are about to make. So often people will come back to me and say they had actually forgotten how much is involved – and say ‘thank you’! It is very easy to put together simple questionnaire and notes that you can use for your clients as a standard form and make it as simple as possible, with minimum questions – you can always ask more after you have read it.
Getting a new puppy is an exciting event for an individual or family. However, so often far too little thought is put into the decision. When we bear in mind that we could spend the next 14 odd years (or more) with this dog, it puts a whole new perspective onto the decision to get one. It is a lifetime commitment and not only does the potential owner owe themselves the time to investigate further; the prospective dog deserves the time and energy this involves.
This is not just about the owner or the prospective dog, as a behaviourist you owe it to the canine profession to educate owners. Bear in mind that the majority of dogs end up at Rescue Centre’s between the ages of 9 months to 2 years – no co-incidence that this is the adolescent period. Just think, if we could educate people properly we could very well end up making places such as SPCA, Animal Rescue etc, do the job they should – engage in rehabilitation and rescue dogs from unfit homes and situations, rather than having to euthenase countless unwanted dogs, all of whom only needed a caring and educated owner who had thought through the decision to get a dog first.
Another reason to have as much knowledge as possible (not just on pups but on all aspects of canine behaviour) is that you can take human education of canine behaviour further. We, as behaviourists need to make as much effort as possible to improve people’s knowledge of canine behaviour and the do’s and don’ts involved. This could include giving talks at schools, writing articles, supplying pamphlets for vets to give out, giving vets written information that they can send out via e-mail to their clients, giving talks to their clients, take extra time with your own clients etc. Not only will you be educating people, you will be building your own reputation and forming good relationships with the vets you work with. Don’t become one of ‘those’ people who knock’s owners that bought a back yard bred dog and ended up with problems – be one of ‘those’ people who does something about it – educate people! The majority of people are really fascinated when they learn a little more about dogs.
Many people are doing the ‘wrong’ thing in the way that they train or treat their dogs, simply because they just don’t know any better – don’t judge them, educate them, and in such a manner that does not make your clients feel stupid or that they were possibly bad owners, bring in some choice phrases such as ‘oh gosh we have all been there – how on earth could you have know any better when you did not have the correct information at your finger tips?. We will be doing work on the client relationship at a later stage.
If you were looking for a new car and wanted it to be a VW Polo and blue in colour, would you just look in the paper, phone the owners, ask its age, the price and then ask for it to be delivered? Of course not, you would go and look at the car, check the condition, look at the service booklet and get as much history on it as possible, check the tyres, take it for a test drive, etc and you may even get a mechanic to look at it before you part with your cash. After all this vehicle needs to take you from A-B in a reliable and safe manner with good petrol consumption and so on.
Then why is so little research put into getting a dog? A dog that will live with you and your family for well over a decade – a dog that has sharp teeth that could cause damage to the family. Simple, people just haven't thought about it from this point of view and that is why people will have pup’s delivered to them or purchase from internet sites such as junkmail and various other unsavoury avenues.
1. Points For clients to consider
What new owners need to ask themselves is why do they want a new puppy? What do they expect from that puppy? What is the aim of getting it? The following questions will give you an idea of what to ask and after you have spoken to the client you will have a good idea of which questions are going to be relevant rather than including them all:
Then why is so little research put into getting a dog? A dog that will live with you and your family for well over a decade – a dog that has sharp teeth that could cause damage to the family. Simple, people just haven't thought about it from this point of view and that is why people will have pup’s delivered to them or purchase from internet sites such as junkmail and various other unsavoury avenues.
1. Points For clients to consider
What new owners need to ask themselves is why do they want a new puppy? What do they expect from that puppy? What is the aim of getting it? The following questions will give you an idea of what to ask and after you have spoken to the client you will have a good idea of which questions are going to be relevant rather than including them all:
Is it to replace a dog that has passed? As you can never replace one child with another; neither can you replace a dog that has passed on with another dog. Dogs, as people, are individuals. I often come across owners who are constantly comparing the new edition with one that they had before. This just doesn’t work, is unfair to the dog and often a bond is never formed.
This tends to happen when a friend or family member has said that the quicker a new dog is obtained the better. We disagree. People need to go through the grieving process before getting another dog, but having said this, there is no hard and fast rule, we are all individuals and must do what is right for us – but don’t be pressured into getting a dog we don’t really want by outside influences.
What are the family’s expectations of the new puppy? It is a good idea to get the family to put together a list of what they want from the dog. If you have a husband who wants a large outside watch dog, a mother who wants something small for company, one child who wants a medium sized dog to go running and playing with, another who wants a dog to cuddle up too, they will soon realize that they have a potential problem on their hands! This may sound rather unlikely, but unfortunately it happens all too often – people don’t talk! The first step in deciding what breed you want is for all members in the family to make a list of their expectations and the reasons they want a pup and then to sit down and discuss the various options and find a happy medium.
Are they thinking of getting a breed they have had before? If you have always had a particular breed, such as a Collie and now decide to get another one, have a look at how your own life may have changed since you last had a puppy - can you handle this type of dog at your current age, do you have a large enough garden for one, are you strong enough to handle it, can you give it the exercise it needs, especially if a working breed.
If you have existing dogs, how will the new pup/dog fit in? I often come across situations where people already have two dogs and suddenly decide they want another. It may be a case of the new owners being caring people and adopting a dog that was found on the side of the road or similar. What they do not realize is that the addition of this new dog could very well upset the apple cart in their own pack, and cause reactive behaviour and various behavioural problems. When you have an existing pack that co-habits happily, you owe it to the pack not to cause unnecessary disruptions.
I want a dog for protection If this is the reason for purchasing a pup, forget it. Dogs are animals that require attention and not watch dogs that spend all their time in the yard as security measures – rather invest in electric fencing or an alarm, or both!
Some of the reasons not to invest in a dog for protection - dogs are social animals and will be very unhappy living outside by themselves, and very often dogs like this will develop behaviour problems. A dog living outside can easily be poisoned. Thirdly, a dog that is not sufficiently looked after and made to feel that the family is part of its pack is more likely to look after itself, not the family. A dog that is part of the family, is kept inside at night, is more likely to be a deterrent to a potential burglar by barking from inside the house, raising the alarm, rather than outside in the garden.
Dogs that are bought as watchdogs/protection dogs tend to be breeds that are perceived to be good for protection such as Rotti’s, Boerboel, Pitti etc. Do you really want one of these dogs, untrained, mixing with your kids or visitors when outside, or heavens forbid dashing out the gate (by mistake of course) when somebody else is walking their little Maltese?
Are all members of the family ready for a new pup? If you are pregnant or considering a family, now may not be the time for a new pup as you will have your hands full with baby responsibilities and have very little free time for the pup. Also, if you have very young children, it would be better to wait till the child is older and more responsible. It is very difficult to watch a young child and pup 24/7 and ensure that the puppy’s ear/hair/tail etc are not pulled and to watch that the pup does not start to use the child as the newest chew toy! The first few weeks with the new addition are crucial and you need to have both the time and the energy to do the work concerned if you want your pup to grow up to be a well behaved, well balanced member of the family.
The wife may desperately want a new pup but the husband may be totally against it. Married life is difficult enough without adding in additional stress factors and what a way for a dog to come into a family – unwanted - dogs feel stress as well!
Can you make sure that your dog receives sufficient interaction with different people? Again, this may sound like a strange statement, but all too often I work with dogs that are afraid of men, children or different races, simply because they have not had enough interaction with them especially when pups. We will discuss this more at a later stage in the behavioural problem and puppy section.
Are you thinking about changing jobs or have just changed? This could mean that you would be busier at work than normal and that your times may not be the same as they were before, and it will be more difficult to take a few days off to help the pup settle. You may be in for overtime, working after hours at home, or travel more, which would leave you in a difficult situation with a new pup on your hands.
Is this pup for you or your child? I have seen parents give into a child’s constant demands to get a puppy with the child promising to feed it, play with it, walk it etc – well – we all know what happens there, don’t we? If a child is being given a pup as a present, the child must first of all be over 7 years of age – an age where the child starts to have the emotional maturity and understanding to work with a puppy, and even then we feel this age is far too young. A lot of this will depend on the child in question – we have come across 13 year old kids that were less mature that a 6 year old!
If the parents are under the impression that the pup will teach the child responsibility - it just doesn’t work (on average), the person who ends up looking after the pup (often resentfully) is Mum who may already have a full time job and her hands full when she comes home, and still has to make supper, help or check homework etc. A pup is not a toy; it is a living, breathing animal that has needs which have to be met.
Another aspect to consider if the parent has decided to give the child a pup despite the points above, the breed needs to be carefully considered. I once had a client who purchased a GSD for a 7 year little girl. All was fine till the pup reached about 5/6 months, then the child could simply not handle the dog and the dog ended up taking the girl for a walk and she slowly but surely lost interest as she could just not handle the dog. You will find more notes on this subject under the section ‘Children and Dogs’.
Are you going on holiday soon? This is an important question to consider as what will happen to the pup, and additionally that the owners will miss out on the crucial period (more on this later). People do not always realize how much time is involved in looking after the pup initially, and it may be better to get the pup when the person has time to spend at home with the pup. If the holiday is close to when they want to adopt a pup, the breeder (if worth their salt) will normally keep the puppy a bit longer, as long as it has been paid for, although this is not the ideal situation due to the early socialization period being missed. It would be better to wait for the next litter when you will have the time.
I want a dog for company This happens a lot more than people realize and is often an emotional, spontaneous purchase from a pet shop or flea market. On occasion, people, after a death in the family, a divorce, couples unable to have children etc, will get a pup for company. What then happens when new friends enter their life or a new relationship starts?
A dog is not a substitute for a child or another human being. Pups that are purchased for this reason are often exposed to anthropomorphism – where the dog is treated like a human. This is not what dogs are, they are dogs, not people, and treating a dog like this can easily result in behaviour problems such as separation anxiety, reactive behaviour, demanding behaviour, over dependency etc.
Remember that a dog needs canine interaction, not just human interaction. Failure to meet with this need may well result in a dog that is fearful or reactive to other dogs, may develop separation anxiety or demanding behaviour, to mention just a few. Then what happens when the person’s lifestyle changes and they get a new partner or new friends – the dogs place in their lives changes completely, often for the worse.
If you have a client who has never had a dog, they need to look even more carefully at the breed they choose. I have come across clients who got a Border collie as a first time dog and had no idea what they were letting themselves in for – high energy, high maintenance and not a sit at home, first time dog owner kind of breed. Another example was a 65 year old client who got a Rotti, both for company and security and just couldn’t control or manage to exercise the dog and it had to be given back. The reasons that dogs end up at shelters is so very varied and at the risk of sounding repetative, if the client had thought it through properly, the whole situation could have been avoided.
I want a dog like Lassie. Pictures/movies/adverts such as Lassie, A Hundred and One Dalmatians, Jock of the Bushveld, Rin Tin Tin and the numerous adverts featuring dogs , results in people wanting to get a dog ‘just like that dog on TV’. What they don’t realize is that the dog in the picture has been extensively trained to perform the particular behaviours, and that many of these behaviours are ‘chained’ (The process of combining multiple behaviours into a continuous sequence linked together by cues) to form a sequence, not something the dog would do naturally on its own.
Unfortunately, with dogs that are the current ‘flavour of the month’ you will find that there are a lot of backyard or unethical breeders who will take advantage of the current rage, and breed from inferior stock. This once again often ends up with dogs in rescue centres, or worse.
Another point here is ‘famous’ people appearing on TV with their dogs in tow. Over the last few years small dogs, such as Paris Hilton’s Chihuahua, have become the ‘in thing’ with pre teens and teenagers. So often all these adolescents think the dog is for carrying around under their arms when out with friends, giving no thought as to the rest of the time.
Are you thinking about getting a pup for a boyfriend/girlfriend etc? This is also a situation where pups very often end up at Rescue Shelters. If the person really does want a pup, then rather give them a cheque/voucher towards the purchase together with a good book such as Dr. Ian Dunbar ‘Before and After Getting a Puppy’ and a list of reputable breeders. Both these books are free to download on the Friends of the Dog website.
Is the pup going to be left alone all day? This situation can be successful if the owner is prepared to take the pup out in the morning for a walk, leave it in a puppy playpen, get somebody to come in at least twice during the day and take it out and spend some time with it, and then walk it again in the evening, although there are very few people who will be either prepared, or have the time to do this and it really is not the best option for the pup - dogs are social and need social interaction.
Overall, my personal feelings on the above are that it is just not fair to the pup. Apart from the fact that a pup needs to eat three times a dog for a substantial period, dogs are very social animals and being left alone all day can result in a dog becoming stressed, which in turn leads to behaviour problems, the most common of which seem to be barking, howling and destructive behaviour. If somebody does not have the facility of leaving the pup at home with somebody, then I feel the only other option is to take the pup to a Doggy Day Care centre. If this is an option bear in mind that this will have to be paid for and can be a considerable monthly expense.
What also can occur with dogs in situations such as this, is that when owner is home, the dog becomes too dependent on owner, demands attention, follows owner around, and is never taught to be alone when owner is home. This, in turn can lead to separation anxiety occurring if the owner is normally home in the evenings for example, and then goes out one evening and the dog just can’t cope with being alone again, and barking, destructive behaviour can occur. This is not an uncommon situation, but it is also not one that develops overnight, and if you know the signs to look for, can be prevented from happening.
Are you thinking about downsizing your home? There are more and more situations like this occurring. Previously down-sizing happened as people were approaching or reached retirement, but with the economic climate nowadays, downsizing occurs much more frequently. The new home may have a garden that is pocket sized and totally unsuitable for the breed or that the complex does not allow pets or only allows certain breeds. We will talk more about this in Dogs in Complexes.
This is not to say that you can’t keep a dog in a small area – you can. I had my 58kg Rotti staying with us in a double story house in Portugal with only a veranda for his outside needs. Needless to say he was walked three times per day and was perfectly happy. This is a common situation in the UK and I also believe in certain parts of the USA. More recently I had my Border collie overseas as well, with exactly the same situation.
Are you living in a Townhouse or Flat? If so, you will firstly have to make sure that dogs are allowed and also what breeds, weights or sizes are allowed, as there are often restrictions. If you are in a flat, is there an appropriate area near by to take the dog out to cater for its elimination needs, and what arrangements have been make for the dog to eliminate inside when you are out?
Are you considering emigrating? Again, emigration is something that is on the rise. Even if the prospective owner may only be considering the move two years from now when their child finishes matric or similar, a decision of what to do with the dog still needs to be taken into consideration for when the journey occurs. The number of people looking for homes for their pets has risen astronomically over the past few years, with multiple e-mails advertising same, on a daily basis. We just have to realize that the majority of these dogs will not be homed – then what happens to them? If a home is not found then the dog will either end up being euthanized or spending years in a pro-life shelter with perhaps 60 other dogs in one run – does not bear thinking about!
This tends to happen when a friend or family member has said that the quicker a new dog is obtained the better. We disagree. People need to go through the grieving process before getting another dog, but having said this, there is no hard and fast rule, we are all individuals and must do what is right for us – but don’t be pressured into getting a dog we don’t really want by outside influences.
What are the family’s expectations of the new puppy? It is a good idea to get the family to put together a list of what they want from the dog. If you have a husband who wants a large outside watch dog, a mother who wants something small for company, one child who wants a medium sized dog to go running and playing with, another who wants a dog to cuddle up too, they will soon realize that they have a potential problem on their hands! This may sound rather unlikely, but unfortunately it happens all too often – people don’t talk! The first step in deciding what breed you want is for all members in the family to make a list of their expectations and the reasons they want a pup and then to sit down and discuss the various options and find a happy medium.
Are they thinking of getting a breed they have had before? If you have always had a particular breed, such as a Collie and now decide to get another one, have a look at how your own life may have changed since you last had a puppy - can you handle this type of dog at your current age, do you have a large enough garden for one, are you strong enough to handle it, can you give it the exercise it needs, especially if a working breed.
If you have existing dogs, how will the new pup/dog fit in? I often come across situations where people already have two dogs and suddenly decide they want another. It may be a case of the new owners being caring people and adopting a dog that was found on the side of the road or similar. What they do not realize is that the addition of this new dog could very well upset the apple cart in their own pack, and cause reactive behaviour and various behavioural problems. When you have an existing pack that co-habits happily, you owe it to the pack not to cause unnecessary disruptions.
I want a dog for protection If this is the reason for purchasing a pup, forget it. Dogs are animals that require attention and not watch dogs that spend all their time in the yard as security measures – rather invest in electric fencing or an alarm, or both!
Some of the reasons not to invest in a dog for protection - dogs are social animals and will be very unhappy living outside by themselves, and very often dogs like this will develop behaviour problems. A dog living outside can easily be poisoned. Thirdly, a dog that is not sufficiently looked after and made to feel that the family is part of its pack is more likely to look after itself, not the family. A dog that is part of the family, is kept inside at night, is more likely to be a deterrent to a potential burglar by barking from inside the house, raising the alarm, rather than outside in the garden.
Dogs that are bought as watchdogs/protection dogs tend to be breeds that are perceived to be good for protection such as Rotti’s, Boerboel, Pitti etc. Do you really want one of these dogs, untrained, mixing with your kids or visitors when outside, or heavens forbid dashing out the gate (by mistake of course) when somebody else is walking their little Maltese?
Are all members of the family ready for a new pup? If you are pregnant or considering a family, now may not be the time for a new pup as you will have your hands full with baby responsibilities and have very little free time for the pup. Also, if you have very young children, it would be better to wait till the child is older and more responsible. It is very difficult to watch a young child and pup 24/7 and ensure that the puppy’s ear/hair/tail etc are not pulled and to watch that the pup does not start to use the child as the newest chew toy! The first few weeks with the new addition are crucial and you need to have both the time and the energy to do the work concerned if you want your pup to grow up to be a well behaved, well balanced member of the family.
The wife may desperately want a new pup but the husband may be totally against it. Married life is difficult enough without adding in additional stress factors and what a way for a dog to come into a family – unwanted - dogs feel stress as well!
Can you make sure that your dog receives sufficient interaction with different people? Again, this may sound like a strange statement, but all too often I work with dogs that are afraid of men, children or different races, simply because they have not had enough interaction with them especially when pups. We will discuss this more at a later stage in the behavioural problem and puppy section.
Are you thinking about changing jobs or have just changed? This could mean that you would be busier at work than normal and that your times may not be the same as they were before, and it will be more difficult to take a few days off to help the pup settle. You may be in for overtime, working after hours at home, or travel more, which would leave you in a difficult situation with a new pup on your hands.
Is this pup for you or your child? I have seen parents give into a child’s constant demands to get a puppy with the child promising to feed it, play with it, walk it etc – well – we all know what happens there, don’t we? If a child is being given a pup as a present, the child must first of all be over 7 years of age – an age where the child starts to have the emotional maturity and understanding to work with a puppy, and even then we feel this age is far too young. A lot of this will depend on the child in question – we have come across 13 year old kids that were less mature that a 6 year old!
If the parents are under the impression that the pup will teach the child responsibility - it just doesn’t work (on average), the person who ends up looking after the pup (often resentfully) is Mum who may already have a full time job and her hands full when she comes home, and still has to make supper, help or check homework etc. A pup is not a toy; it is a living, breathing animal that has needs which have to be met.
Another aspect to consider if the parent has decided to give the child a pup despite the points above, the breed needs to be carefully considered. I once had a client who purchased a GSD for a 7 year little girl. All was fine till the pup reached about 5/6 months, then the child could simply not handle the dog and the dog ended up taking the girl for a walk and she slowly but surely lost interest as she could just not handle the dog. You will find more notes on this subject under the section ‘Children and Dogs’.
Are you going on holiday soon? This is an important question to consider as what will happen to the pup, and additionally that the owners will miss out on the crucial period (more on this later). People do not always realize how much time is involved in looking after the pup initially, and it may be better to get the pup when the person has time to spend at home with the pup. If the holiday is close to when they want to adopt a pup, the breeder (if worth their salt) will normally keep the puppy a bit longer, as long as it has been paid for, although this is not the ideal situation due to the early socialization period being missed. It would be better to wait for the next litter when you will have the time.
I want a dog for company This happens a lot more than people realize and is often an emotional, spontaneous purchase from a pet shop or flea market. On occasion, people, after a death in the family, a divorce, couples unable to have children etc, will get a pup for company. What then happens when new friends enter their life or a new relationship starts?
A dog is not a substitute for a child or another human being. Pups that are purchased for this reason are often exposed to anthropomorphism – where the dog is treated like a human. This is not what dogs are, they are dogs, not people, and treating a dog like this can easily result in behaviour problems such as separation anxiety, reactive behaviour, demanding behaviour, over dependency etc.
Remember that a dog needs canine interaction, not just human interaction. Failure to meet with this need may well result in a dog that is fearful or reactive to other dogs, may develop separation anxiety or demanding behaviour, to mention just a few. Then what happens when the person’s lifestyle changes and they get a new partner or new friends – the dogs place in their lives changes completely, often for the worse.
If you have a client who has never had a dog, they need to look even more carefully at the breed they choose. I have come across clients who got a Border collie as a first time dog and had no idea what they were letting themselves in for – high energy, high maintenance and not a sit at home, first time dog owner kind of breed. Another example was a 65 year old client who got a Rotti, both for company and security and just couldn’t control or manage to exercise the dog and it had to be given back. The reasons that dogs end up at shelters is so very varied and at the risk of sounding repetative, if the client had thought it through properly, the whole situation could have been avoided.
I want a dog like Lassie. Pictures/movies/adverts such as Lassie, A Hundred and One Dalmatians, Jock of the Bushveld, Rin Tin Tin and the numerous adverts featuring dogs , results in people wanting to get a dog ‘just like that dog on TV’. What they don’t realize is that the dog in the picture has been extensively trained to perform the particular behaviours, and that many of these behaviours are ‘chained’ (The process of combining multiple behaviours into a continuous sequence linked together by cues) to form a sequence, not something the dog would do naturally on its own.
Unfortunately, with dogs that are the current ‘flavour of the month’ you will find that there are a lot of backyard or unethical breeders who will take advantage of the current rage, and breed from inferior stock. This once again often ends up with dogs in rescue centres, or worse.
Another point here is ‘famous’ people appearing on TV with their dogs in tow. Over the last few years small dogs, such as Paris Hilton’s Chihuahua, have become the ‘in thing’ with pre teens and teenagers. So often all these adolescents think the dog is for carrying around under their arms when out with friends, giving no thought as to the rest of the time.
Are you thinking about getting a pup for a boyfriend/girlfriend etc? This is also a situation where pups very often end up at Rescue Shelters. If the person really does want a pup, then rather give them a cheque/voucher towards the purchase together with a good book such as Dr. Ian Dunbar ‘Before and After Getting a Puppy’ and a list of reputable breeders. Both these books are free to download on the Friends of the Dog website.
Is the pup going to be left alone all day? This situation can be successful if the owner is prepared to take the pup out in the morning for a walk, leave it in a puppy playpen, get somebody to come in at least twice during the day and take it out and spend some time with it, and then walk it again in the evening, although there are very few people who will be either prepared, or have the time to do this and it really is not the best option for the pup - dogs are social and need social interaction.
Overall, my personal feelings on the above are that it is just not fair to the pup. Apart from the fact that a pup needs to eat three times a dog for a substantial period, dogs are very social animals and being left alone all day can result in a dog becoming stressed, which in turn leads to behaviour problems, the most common of which seem to be barking, howling and destructive behaviour. If somebody does not have the facility of leaving the pup at home with somebody, then I feel the only other option is to take the pup to a Doggy Day Care centre. If this is an option bear in mind that this will have to be paid for and can be a considerable monthly expense.
What also can occur with dogs in situations such as this, is that when owner is home, the dog becomes too dependent on owner, demands attention, follows owner around, and is never taught to be alone when owner is home. This, in turn can lead to separation anxiety occurring if the owner is normally home in the evenings for example, and then goes out one evening and the dog just can’t cope with being alone again, and barking, destructive behaviour can occur. This is not an uncommon situation, but it is also not one that develops overnight, and if you know the signs to look for, can be prevented from happening.
Are you thinking about downsizing your home? There are more and more situations like this occurring. Previously down-sizing happened as people were approaching or reached retirement, but with the economic climate nowadays, downsizing occurs much more frequently. The new home may have a garden that is pocket sized and totally unsuitable for the breed or that the complex does not allow pets or only allows certain breeds. We will talk more about this in Dogs in Complexes.
This is not to say that you can’t keep a dog in a small area – you can. I had my 58kg Rotti staying with us in a double story house in Portugal with only a veranda for his outside needs. Needless to say he was walked three times per day and was perfectly happy. This is a common situation in the UK and I also believe in certain parts of the USA. More recently I had my Border collie overseas as well, with exactly the same situation.
Are you living in a Townhouse or Flat? If so, you will firstly have to make sure that dogs are allowed and also what breeds, weights or sizes are allowed, as there are often restrictions. If you are in a flat, is there an appropriate area near by to take the dog out to cater for its elimination needs, and what arrangements have been make for the dog to eliminate inside when you are out?
Are you considering emigrating? Again, emigration is something that is on the rise. Even if the prospective owner may only be considering the move two years from now when their child finishes matric or similar, a decision of what to do with the dog still needs to be taken into consideration for when the journey occurs. The number of people looking for homes for their pets has risen astronomically over the past few years, with multiple e-mails advertising same, on a daily basis. We just have to realize that the majority of these dogs will not be homed – then what happens to them? If a home is not found then the dog will either end up being euthanized or spending years in a pro-life shelter with perhaps 60 other dogs in one run – does not bear thinking about!
2. Owners Responsibility
Once the family has decided to go ahead and get a pup, there are other questions that need to be asked, and a family decision made as to who is responsible for what.
Can you afford to buy a dog from a reputable breeder? These dogs will cost a lot more than those found in pet shops, flea markets and back yard breeders or rescue centres, with good reason. If not buying a dog from a reputable breeder, than rather give a dog in a shelter a home. There is an excellent article on our Friends of the Dog website by Dr. Hahn which is good to give to owners to read through.
http://www.friendsofthedog.co.za/breeders.html
Once the family has decided to go ahead and get a pup, there are other questions that need to be asked, and a family decision made as to who is responsible for what.
Can you afford to buy a dog from a reputable breeder? These dogs will cost a lot more than those found in pet shops, flea markets and back yard breeders or rescue centres, with good reason. If not buying a dog from a reputable breeder, than rather give a dog in a shelter a home. There is an excellent article on our Friends of the Dog website by Dr. Hahn which is good to give to owners to read through.
http://www.friendsofthedog.co.za/breeders.html
Who will exercise the dog? As we all know, a dog needs regular exercise, not just from the physical point of view but for mental stimulation as well.
Who will be responsible for washing and grooming the dog? In the event that they will not be taking the dog to a parlour, whose responsibility will it be and how often will this need to occur.
If the dog is a breed that requires grooming at a parlour, can they afford it? This should be taken into account when looking for a breed and enquiries at parlours should be made as to how much it costs and how often the pup/dog will need to go.
Who is going to be at home to look after and supervise the puppy? You can’t just leave a puppy unsupervised when it first comes home. Somebody has to supervise.
Who will take charge of house/toilet training? To ensure that your dog learns where to eliminate requires dedication and consistency.
Whose job will it be to feed the dog? A puppy requires feeding 3 to 4 times a day and when mature, twice a day.
Can you afford to give your dog good quality dog food? Good quality dog food, sold at vets and up-market pet shops, is, for obvious reasons, much more expensive than brands bought elsewhere. The ideal food in my own opinion is raw food, but this must be of a good quality and from a company that is registered with the Department of Agriculture. However, what people do not always realize is that this expense results in lower vet bills due to better health, longer life, less or no ‘ rear end smells’ (flatulence) and much less dog poop in the garden. When feeding a good quality food you will actually end up feeding your dog less quantity.
Are there sufficient funds to cover the veterinary fees for inoculations, deworming, sterilization, medical problems etc? Your local vet will be able to give you the estimated cost for keeping a dog per annum and I have included a link here to an article on this subject for your own knowledge - http://www.friendsofthedog.co.za/how-much-will-that-dog-really-cost.htm but bear in mind this was written in 2010! . Also what needs to be taken into account is the sterilization, licences, the micro chips, shampoo, deworming, flea and tic products etc and this does not take into account any illness. If you decide on a canine medical aid, you will need to find out the cost of this and be aware that not everything is covered; there is normally a portion of vet fee’s that clients are liable for in the case of everyday care.
Where will the dog sleep? Does the owner have an area where the pup can sleep safely? Crates or puppy play pens are the ideal location for new pups together will some play space next to them.
If you are going to crate train, can you afford the crate? The price of crates has increased a lot over the last 5 years. A crate is a wonderful investment. Not only does it help to have pups easily and quickly toilet trained, a pup can be taught to spend time in its crate chewing which will save the furniture from sharp little teeth and it teaches the dog to settle down and spend some time alone. My own choice, although more expensive initially, is the metal, fold down crate.'
What will the equipment cost? Collar and leads, blankets and kennels, bowls, beds, toys, etc cost?
What is the cost of puppy socialization and who will take the puppy? All pups should be exposed to a good puppy socialization class. As these normally occur on a weekend, who is going to give up that time to take the pup and to do the exercises that are taught and the additional socializing that is required?
What is the cost of further obedience training and who will take the dog? Although this is not an absolute necessity, especially if the dog is well socialized within the family and goes on walks and this is maintained on a regular basis, it should be taken into account and a good idea to consider. If the dog is not well socialized, the initial socialization skills can be lost.
Will the dog be boarded if you go on holiday, or perhaps the services of a house sitter are obtained, what are the costs of this? All of these options cost money. It is also possible to take your dogs with you; a crate is excellent for this and nowadays there are plenty of ‘pet friendly’ facilities available.
I am not trying to put off people getting dogs. In my opinion, I feel that every family should have at least one dog, but being realistic about what to expect and what it can cost is something every potential dog owner should think about, rather than ‘emotional purchasing’ of a cute pup at the flea market.
If you raise a pup properly, you will create a happy, well behaved member of your family that will bring you years of joy – if you don’t; you are facing the possibility of re-homing or even having the dog euthanized.
Who will be responsible for washing and grooming the dog? In the event that they will not be taking the dog to a parlour, whose responsibility will it be and how often will this need to occur.
If the dog is a breed that requires grooming at a parlour, can they afford it? This should be taken into account when looking for a breed and enquiries at parlours should be made as to how much it costs and how often the pup/dog will need to go.
Who is going to be at home to look after and supervise the puppy? You can’t just leave a puppy unsupervised when it first comes home. Somebody has to supervise.
Who will take charge of house/toilet training? To ensure that your dog learns where to eliminate requires dedication and consistency.
Whose job will it be to feed the dog? A puppy requires feeding 3 to 4 times a day and when mature, twice a day.
Can you afford to give your dog good quality dog food? Good quality dog food, sold at vets and up-market pet shops, is, for obvious reasons, much more expensive than brands bought elsewhere. The ideal food in my own opinion is raw food, but this must be of a good quality and from a company that is registered with the Department of Agriculture. However, what people do not always realize is that this expense results in lower vet bills due to better health, longer life, less or no ‘ rear end smells’ (flatulence) and much less dog poop in the garden. When feeding a good quality food you will actually end up feeding your dog less quantity.
Are there sufficient funds to cover the veterinary fees for inoculations, deworming, sterilization, medical problems etc? Your local vet will be able to give you the estimated cost for keeping a dog per annum and I have included a link here to an article on this subject for your own knowledge - http://www.friendsofthedog.co.za/how-much-will-that-dog-really-cost.htm but bear in mind this was written in 2010! . Also what needs to be taken into account is the sterilization, licences, the micro chips, shampoo, deworming, flea and tic products etc and this does not take into account any illness. If you decide on a canine medical aid, you will need to find out the cost of this and be aware that not everything is covered; there is normally a portion of vet fee’s that clients are liable for in the case of everyday care.
Where will the dog sleep? Does the owner have an area where the pup can sleep safely? Crates or puppy play pens are the ideal location for new pups together will some play space next to them.
If you are going to crate train, can you afford the crate? The price of crates has increased a lot over the last 5 years. A crate is a wonderful investment. Not only does it help to have pups easily and quickly toilet trained, a pup can be taught to spend time in its crate chewing which will save the furniture from sharp little teeth and it teaches the dog to settle down and spend some time alone. My own choice, although more expensive initially, is the metal, fold down crate.'
What will the equipment cost? Collar and leads, blankets and kennels, bowls, beds, toys, etc cost?
What is the cost of puppy socialization and who will take the puppy? All pups should be exposed to a good puppy socialization class. As these normally occur on a weekend, who is going to give up that time to take the pup and to do the exercises that are taught and the additional socializing that is required?
What is the cost of further obedience training and who will take the dog? Although this is not an absolute necessity, especially if the dog is well socialized within the family and goes on walks and this is maintained on a regular basis, it should be taken into account and a good idea to consider. If the dog is not well socialized, the initial socialization skills can be lost.
Will the dog be boarded if you go on holiday, or perhaps the services of a house sitter are obtained, what are the costs of this? All of these options cost money. It is also possible to take your dogs with you; a crate is excellent for this and nowadays there are plenty of ‘pet friendly’ facilities available.
I am not trying to put off people getting dogs. In my opinion, I feel that every family should have at least one dog, but being realistic about what to expect and what it can cost is something every potential dog owner should think about, rather than ‘emotional purchasing’ of a cute pup at the flea market.
If you raise a pup properly, you will create a happy, well behaved member of your family that will bring you years of joy – if you don’t; you are facing the possibility of re-homing or even having the dog euthanized.
3. Choosing the Breed
The decision has been made, a pup will be purchased. Now comes one of the most exciting parts – choosing a breed. As I said earlier, this new addition to your family will be with the family for between 7 to 15 years and in some cases even longer, so try to impress on your clients to take the time to consider.
The family will have made their list as to their responsibilities and will have a rough idea of what they want and probably have at least two breed option to consider. Now I tell them to spend a week or so ‘surfing the net’ and checking out the different breeds they are considering and reading up on them. Here they can take it even further and get in touch with breeders for the prices of pups, what age they come home, what does the breeder expect from them as potential owners, find out about breed specific problems such as HD (hip dysplasia) etc.
Once the choice has been broken down to two or three breeds, more research needs to be done. Go and visit two or three puppy classes near where the client lives. Not only will they see which one they would prefer to take their own pup too, but they can see the different breeds and how they interact with other pups and their owners. If the client has young children and are looking for more of a ‘child friendly’ dog, they can see how the pups interact with children.
Tell your client not to leave it here! They have been observing puppies which have not developed to their full potential, go and look at different obedience classes in their area where they can see adult version of their choice of dog. Look at how easy (or difficult) they are to handle. Speak to the person running the class and ask their opinion on their choice as well as the individual owners. A beginner’s class, with dogs between the ages of 8 months to 18 months is the ideal class to watch as these are very often owners who are having problems with their adolescent dogs.
Other things your client can do is to visit dog shows, both breed specific and general, as well as agility shows and not to forget the local dog walk places. This will give a really good idea as to how the breed develops. I have yet to find a dog owner (myself included!) who will not talk for hours on the attributes of their chosen breed.
Why not suggest to them that they visit their local vet and speak to both the receptionists and the vets themselves. Doing further research such as this and even visiting grooming parlours will help tremendously and may narrow the selection as to what to buy. Your own notes you have put together on the various breeds will provide even more insight, from a behaviourist’s point of view as well.
If client already has a dog, it is not always the best situation to get another of the same breed. As the breeds are the same, commonly the same things will be important to each dog, and the chances of in-fighting are increased. We will deal more with subject a bit later on.
The decision has been made, a pup will be purchased. Now comes one of the most exciting parts – choosing a breed. As I said earlier, this new addition to your family will be with the family for between 7 to 15 years and in some cases even longer, so try to impress on your clients to take the time to consider.
The family will have made their list as to their responsibilities and will have a rough idea of what they want and probably have at least two breed option to consider. Now I tell them to spend a week or so ‘surfing the net’ and checking out the different breeds they are considering and reading up on them. Here they can take it even further and get in touch with breeders for the prices of pups, what age they come home, what does the breeder expect from them as potential owners, find out about breed specific problems such as HD (hip dysplasia) etc.
Once the choice has been broken down to two or three breeds, more research needs to be done. Go and visit two or three puppy classes near where the client lives. Not only will they see which one they would prefer to take their own pup too, but they can see the different breeds and how they interact with other pups and their owners. If the client has young children and are looking for more of a ‘child friendly’ dog, they can see how the pups interact with children.
Tell your client not to leave it here! They have been observing puppies which have not developed to their full potential, go and look at different obedience classes in their area where they can see adult version of their choice of dog. Look at how easy (or difficult) they are to handle. Speak to the person running the class and ask their opinion on their choice as well as the individual owners. A beginner’s class, with dogs between the ages of 8 months to 18 months is the ideal class to watch as these are very often owners who are having problems with their adolescent dogs.
Other things your client can do is to visit dog shows, both breed specific and general, as well as agility shows and not to forget the local dog walk places. This will give a really good idea as to how the breed develops. I have yet to find a dog owner (myself included!) who will not talk for hours on the attributes of their chosen breed.
Why not suggest to them that they visit their local vet and speak to both the receptionists and the vets themselves. Doing further research such as this and even visiting grooming parlours will help tremendously and may narrow the selection as to what to buy. Your own notes you have put together on the various breeds will provide even more insight, from a behaviourist’s point of view as well.
If client already has a dog, it is not always the best situation to get another of the same breed. As the breeds are the same, commonly the same things will be important to each dog, and the chances of in-fighting are increased. We will deal more with subject a bit later on.
4. Breeds
Having a good understanding of the various breeds, what they were bred for and how this will affect their behaviour, is vital knowledge for trainers and behaviourists. You will see in future notes on the brain that some behaviour is instinctive, and this applies to the breed tendencies as well. Simply by knowing what a breed was originally bred for, can help you to formulate your modifications to include stimulation where these needs are concerned i.e. a Basset Hound that does not listen when owner calls when off lead – what is more important to this dog? The scent of course, he was born to do it and one must remember that scent hounds have a better developed sense of smell than some other breeds. How could this be used in behaviour modification in the case of a destructive Basset? Putting out scent trails in the garden and stimulating this dog’s natural instinctive behaviour – this could even be used as a reward - get the idea? Any time we incorporate exercises for the dog to do that stem from the instinctive behaviour, will assist in changing the dogs behaviour.
Breeds are broken down into different groups and it should be remembered that although the breeds fall within group classifications, each and every breed is unique in its own way and should be studied accordingly – as should each and every dog. The main Groups are:-
Gundogs (in the US, this group are know of as Sporting Dogs)
This group consists of a large variety of breeds, such as the Spaniels, Retrievers, Pointers and Setters. And within the group there are subdivisions. The majority of these dogs love water and were bred as being a hunter’s assistant to flush and retrieve game.
These dogs tend to be confident, good with people and other dogs (always remember that this may be a natural tendency, but socialization still has to be undertaken and maintained) due to being bred to work with people and other dogs. They enjoy direction and need to work. As they tend to be active, confident dogs, which can often become a bit too boisterous, they do better with owners that have dog knowledge and training skills. All dogs in this breed require a good amount of exercise and of course due to the instinctive behaviour thoroughly enjoy games of ball throwing, retrieving etc.
Gundogs available via the KUSA website can be seen via this link. http://www.kusa.co.za/index.php/documents/breed-standards/gundog-group?start=30
Additionally, have a look at the breeds on the FOD website to get an idea about the various breeds. http://www.friendsofthedog.co.za/-dog-breeds.html
This group consists of a large variety of breeds, such as the Spaniels, Retrievers, Pointers and Setters. And within the group there are subdivisions. The majority of these dogs love water and were bred as being a hunter’s assistant to flush and retrieve game.
These dogs tend to be confident, good with people and other dogs (always remember that this may be a natural tendency, but socialization still has to be undertaken and maintained) due to being bred to work with people and other dogs. They enjoy direction and need to work. As they tend to be active, confident dogs, which can often become a bit too boisterous, they do better with owners that have dog knowledge and training skills. All dogs in this breed require a good amount of exercise and of course due to the instinctive behaviour thoroughly enjoy games of ball throwing, retrieving etc.
Gundogs available via the KUSA website can be seen via this link. http://www.kusa.co.za/index.php/documents/breed-standards/gundog-group?start=30
Additionally, have a look at the breeds on the FOD website to get an idea about the various breeds. http://www.friendsofthedog.co.za/-dog-breeds.html
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Herding
The AKC (American Kennel Club) originally had this group as members of the Working Group, but in 1983 they were re-classified and the Herding Group came about. Via the link to the KUSA Herding Group below you can see the breeds available in SA. This comprises a large group of dogs and not all are available here in SA. This group is primarily made up of the various Shepherds, Collies and Corgi.
This group of dogs are normally people and other dog friendly (socialization required of course) although I have seen many a Collie gets itself into a potential altercation due to them having what is referred to as ‘clap eye or collie eye’. Due to their breeding they tend to stare at other dogs (reactive behaviour in dogs as will be discussed later), and have a tendency to ‘stalk’ (either walking very slowly and purposefully, or going down low and totally focused on other dog – while moving slowly, and body appears to be held tight) and other dogs often misinterpret the dogs approach as threatening. Mind you I have seen people that don’t know the Collie, being nervous as one approaches in this manner and quickly try to get their dogs out the way!
On average this group are very bright dogs that do well in training and thrive on learning new skills. However they can be rather sensitive and do better with an owner that has dog knowledge and training. They also love to work and need good regular walks and stimulation and can be "over the top" (OTT) and prone to compulsive behaviour (OCD) dogs. Common behaviour problems are chasing, herding, nipping at heels. The link on this group is
http://www.kusa.co.za/index.php/documents/breed-standards/herding-group
The AKC (American Kennel Club) originally had this group as members of the Working Group, but in 1983 they were re-classified and the Herding Group came about. Via the link to the KUSA Herding Group below you can see the breeds available in SA. This comprises a large group of dogs and not all are available here in SA. This group is primarily made up of the various Shepherds, Collies and Corgi.
This group of dogs are normally people and other dog friendly (socialization required of course) although I have seen many a Collie gets itself into a potential altercation due to them having what is referred to as ‘clap eye or collie eye’. Due to their breeding they tend to stare at other dogs (reactive behaviour in dogs as will be discussed later), and have a tendency to ‘stalk’ (either walking very slowly and purposefully, or going down low and totally focused on other dog – while moving slowly, and body appears to be held tight) and other dogs often misinterpret the dogs approach as threatening. Mind you I have seen people that don’t know the Collie, being nervous as one approaches in this manner and quickly try to get their dogs out the way!
On average this group are very bright dogs that do well in training and thrive on learning new skills. However they can be rather sensitive and do better with an owner that has dog knowledge and training. They also love to work and need good regular walks and stimulation and can be "over the top" (OTT) and prone to compulsive behaviour (OCD) dogs. Common behaviour problems are chasing, herding, nipping at heels. The link on this group is
http://www.kusa.co.za/index.php/documents/breed-standards/herding-group
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Hounds
This breed was the earliest recorded dogs used by man for hunting, and are well known for their scenting abilities and stamina, and you will find both Sight and Scent Hounds in this group. Some of these dogs love to indulge in baying and this should be pointed out to potential clients as the noise is not liked by everyone. This is a very diverse group are some are Blood Hounds, Pharaoh Hounds, Norwegian Elkhounds, Afghans and Beagles, among others.
As a group in general, they get on well with people and other dogs but many of them can appear rather aloof and if they are not coping (in a training set up for example) will simply ‘switch off’ and virtually nothing the owner can do will get their attention.
In general they do not have a good attention span and it is better to work with them in short increments and concentrate rather on the things they do like to do. This breed was developed to work on their own, away from their handlers, so they tend to be independent thinkers.
Problems that arise with this breed is that their senses are so well developed that they seem to pick up on every movement and scent, and if a Basset that has picked up a scent he likes while out training or for a walk, his natural inclination is to follow it. It is this breed more than any of the others where the Real Reliable Recall is an important part of daily training and started as soon as possible.
The link to the KUSA site to see which dogs fall under this group is: http://www.kusa.co.za/index.php/documents/breed-standards/hound-group
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,Terriers
Terriers were originally bred as hunting dogs in Britain specifically for going after animals that burrow such as rabbits, rats, fox, badgers etc. These dogs are split into two basic coat differences i.e. smooth and rough coated and the majority of them are smaller type dogs with the exception of the Airedale.
whose sizes range from fairly small, as in the Norfolk, Cairn or West Highland White Terrier, to the gran such as the Norfold, Cairn, West Highland White Terrier, Jack Russell, Fox Terrier, Staffordshire Bull Terrier, Bull Terrier etc - the exception being the larger Bedlington Terrier and the Airedale Terrier.
They are incredibly tenacious dogs and seldom give up. They enjoy people and are very loyal, but can be reactive towards other dogs – even those they live with. Many of this breed do better being ‘only’ dogs and early and continued socialization is a ‘must do’.
They are clever and bright and not difficult to train but do require patience, commitment and owner needs to understand how these dogs think. As one would imagine, apart from possible intolerance to other dogs and possible reactive behaviour, one of the problems that people come across with these breed is their natural inclination to dig.
The KUSA link to see the breeds involved is http://www.kusa.co.za/index.php/documents/breed-standards/terrier-group
Terriers were originally bred as hunting dogs in Britain specifically for going after animals that burrow such as rabbits, rats, fox, badgers etc. These dogs are split into two basic coat differences i.e. smooth and rough coated and the majority of them are smaller type dogs with the exception of the Airedale.
whose sizes range from fairly small, as in the Norfolk, Cairn or West Highland White Terrier, to the gran such as the Norfold, Cairn, West Highland White Terrier, Jack Russell, Fox Terrier, Staffordshire Bull Terrier, Bull Terrier etc - the exception being the larger Bedlington Terrier and the Airedale Terrier.
They are incredibly tenacious dogs and seldom give up. They enjoy people and are very loyal, but can be reactive towards other dogs – even those they live with. Many of this breed do better being ‘only’ dogs and early and continued socialization is a ‘must do’.
They are clever and bright and not difficult to train but do require patience, commitment and owner needs to understand how these dogs think. As one would imagine, apart from possible intolerance to other dogs and possible reactive behaviour, one of the problems that people come across with these breed is their natural inclination to dig.
The KUSA link to see the breeds involved is http://www.kusa.co.za/index.php/documents/breed-standards/terrier-group
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Toy
Many of the Toy breed were developed from larger working dogs by the process of miniaturization and selective breeding and are basically companion dogs, although there is nothing ‘toy’ about them. They are equally capable of all the behaviours that larger dogs exhibit and can be fiercely protective.
Some of the more common of the Toy Group are Bichon Frise, Yorkshire Terrier, Chihuahua, Cavalier King Charles Spaniel, Italian Greyhound, Toy Pom, Peke, Miniature Pinscher, Maltese Poodle etc
Read full article here: http://www.breedia.com/dogs/kusa/toy-group
The most common problems I see in dogs like this is over attachment, separation anxiety and yapping/barking, as well as intolerance to certain types of people and other dogs, which I personally believe comes from fear, as people seem to think that small dogs don’t need socialization in general just because they are small.
On average easy to train and clever, but unfortunately as in puppy training above, these dogs are not taken to training enough and tend to get away with many behaviour problems that would not be tolerated in a bigger dog, due both to their size and the owner accepting behaviour is would not accept in a larger dogs. Many people seem to this of these dogs as their ‘children’, rather than as dogs –to the dog’s detriment!
The link to the Toy breed on KUSA is http://www.kusa.co.za/index.php/documents/breed-standards/toy-group
Many of the Toy breed were developed from larger working dogs by the process of miniaturization and selective breeding and are basically companion dogs, although there is nothing ‘toy’ about them. They are equally capable of all the behaviours that larger dogs exhibit and can be fiercely protective.
Some of the more common of the Toy Group are Bichon Frise, Yorkshire Terrier, Chihuahua, Cavalier King Charles Spaniel, Italian Greyhound, Toy Pom, Peke, Miniature Pinscher, Maltese Poodle etc
Read full article here: http://www.breedia.com/dogs/kusa/toy-group
The most common problems I see in dogs like this is over attachment, separation anxiety and yapping/barking, as well as intolerance to certain types of people and other dogs, which I personally believe comes from fear, as people seem to think that small dogs don’t need socialization in general just because they are small.
On average easy to train and clever, but unfortunately as in puppy training above, these dogs are not taken to training enough and tend to get away with many behaviour problems that would not be tolerated in a bigger dog, due both to their size and the owner accepting behaviour is would not accept in a larger dogs. Many people seem to this of these dogs as their ‘children’, rather than as dogs –to the dog’s detriment!
The link to the Toy breed on KUSA is http://www.kusa.co.za/index.php/documents/breed-standards/toy-group
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Utility (In US this group is known as Non-sporting Dogs)
This group are dogs which were each bred for a specific function, but just don’t fit into any of the other breed groups. It is the most diverse of all the groups often with no common characteristics and come in all shapes and sizes from the Boston Terrier, Bichon Frise, Chow Chow to the Bulldog, to the Shar Pei, so you can see how very diverse this group is.
As this group is so diverse and bred for different functions, behaviour concerns need to be looked at on the basis of the individual breeds as opposed to Group behaviour concerns.
The KUSA link to the breeds falling into this group is. http://www.kusa.co.za/index.php/documents/breed-standards/utility-group
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Working
This group was bred for guarding, protection, pulling (carts, sleds etc) and certain rescue work (St. Bernard), and as a group are all large dogs. Many of these breeds can be reactive to both people and other dogs due to the job they were designed to do such as protection work.
Some of these include Bernese Mountain Dog, Boer Boel, Boxer, Dobermann, Great Dane, Giant Schnauzer, Mastiff, Rottweiler, St. Bernard to mention but a few.
They are not always easy to handle due to their size and owners that are knowledgeable in dogs and training and who can put in place the do’s and don’ts and control any aspect of the dogs behaviour i.e. an owner that the dog see’s as in charge in the human/canine relationship and who the dog respects.
KUSA link to the various breeds.
http://www.kusa.co.za/index.php/documents/breed-standards/working-group
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