MASTER - SECTIONS SIZING

Canine Behaviour Foundation Course

Module 3 - Section - 2 - Chasing Behaviour

What is Prey Drive and which Groups are more prone to it?
Why does excessive chasing occur?
Modifications

1. What is Prey Drive and which Groups are more prone to it?

The majority of dogs will chase – it is what they would do in nature in order to survive – chase prey. However some dogs have a much stronger ‘prey drive’ than others, and with many of these dogs, refraining from chasing a moving object is virtually impossible, and this is where behaviour problems often present themselves as they can become bored and destructive if the prey drive is not being satisfied.

Another factor is that breeders have increased the prey drive of some breeds by selective breeding –and some breeds are just ‘hard wired’ to engage in this fun activity. Unfortunately this can be a very dangerous behaviour for dogs and the best treatment is prevention.

In training, prey drive can be used to advantage as instead of a treat, one can use the dogs natural prey drive to obtain the behaviour we want – the dog is rewarded with perhaps a ball being tossed up or thrown for it. This would be a much better reward to a dog with high prey drive than a treat.

This is often a very difficult habit to break as the behaviour is self-rewarding to the dog as it is engaging in natural behaviour. I have heard it described that when a dog engages in an activity such of this, the internal reinforcement and reward is so strong, it could be described as the dog getting a ‘buzz’ of dopamine every time they perform an inherited motor pattern.

With this behaviour many dogs will be heard to make small ‘yipping’ noises and the look is one of total pleasure and enjoyment. Also, as it is stimulated by any type of movement, the dog may not only go after smaller prey type animals, cars, motor bikes, running children, joggers etc can be chased as well.

Prey drive is broken down into 5 separate sections:

Search – breeds who tend to have a high Search drive are the Hound group
Eye Stalk – breeds would be the Herding group
Chase – breeds such as Lurchers and Greyhounds
Grab – Bite and Kill – more common in the Terrier breeds.
Dissect and Consume – not all dogs will do this

In nature, without the selective breeding by humans, animals that have a high prey drive have exactly enough of one part of the sequence to lead it to the next part of the sequence – the procedure is in balance - with selective breeding this is not always the case, as breeders may have concentrated more on one aspect that another.

1. Dog searching

2. Dog Stalking

3. Dog chasing prey

4. Dog grabbing prey

5. Dissect and consume

2. Why does excessive chasing occur?

We have heard trainers in the past say ‘it is just a recall problem’, it is not, this goes much deeper than just having a good recall, although we would always suggest that a really reliable recall is taught.

As in all behaviour, the first thing we have to determine is why the behaviour is happening and in this case, what does the dog get out of it?

The common reasons are:-

Genetic – dog has been bred to have a prey drive.

Frustration, Boredom and even anxiety.

Early training – little or no training was done to reduce the likelihood of future problems and the dog was allowed to engage in natural chasing behaviour with no curtailing of behaviour. Often with dogs like this the owner will shout and scream at the dog, inadvertently further reinforcing the behaviour they do not want.

Territorial – the dog will not allow a mouse, rat, rabbit, cat etc into its own property

Excessive play behaviour – where a dog is playing with children or other dogs and the behaviour becomes OTT and you will find the children and dogs being herded and often a nip to the ankle area is give – all natural behaviour.

Lack of allowing the dog to engage in what it was bred for.

Home not suitable for a working breed.

3. Modifications

Management – dog must always be on lead unless in a safe area where it can run and chase with no danger to itself or anything it chases. Dog to be kept away from moving objects it normally chases while modifications are being undertaken. All the exercises below to be done in a controlled area where the likelihood of the dog chasing other moving objects or small animals cannot happen.

House Rules – the dog must listen to the owner and respect their position in the combined human/canine social structure. This behaviour is very hard to stop and it is crucial that the dog listens and responds to the owner. Ignoring, Attention on owners terms only, NRM, Work to Earn using the Recall.

Dog’s Needs – even when modifications are put in place, it is essential that the dog engages in the behaviour it was bred for – so in addition to ensuring that all other needs are met, a dog like this must be able to let off steam with lots of chase, ball games frisbee. The use of the Flirt Pole here is brilliant ( https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vTAM-FQiwAw )– under supervision. If the dog will not return the object to the owner, then this must be taught at once. Supply additional chew toys and ensure enough physical exercise. With chew toys we would look at one’s where a bit of the chase behaviour can be brought it with chew toys that can be tossed into the air etc.

Real Reliable Recall followed by Recall on a Long Line.

Determine why you believe the behaviour is happening by examining the standard reasons for behavioural problems

Other exercises suggested would be a very reliable wait and also a stay. The leave and the Watch exercise. The Watch would enable the owner to get to dogs attention on them away from moving objects – the Wait will teach the dog self-control. It is a good idea to bring in the Wait exercise even when throwing objects for the dog and the more it is practiced the better self-control the dog will develop.

Dog that chases cars or joggers

In addition to standard modifications the owner would get the dog fully under control as above and then the exercises (using a long line) would be brought in whereby you get somebody to act as a jogger. You would start with the Long Line being very short like a standard lead and do your Watch, Wait routine as below, and gradually allow the dog to have more and more line available – you will always be able to control the situation and that is what is important.You have the dog on a long line and sitting next to owner and issue the Watch cue. The jogger goes past at a distance while the owner keeps the dog in the Watch position. When the jogger is out of sight, the owner throws the ball for the dog – keeping the dog on the long line to prevent the dog chasing after the disappearing jogger.

This is practiced over and over with the jogger getting progressively closer until the jogger can run past owner and dog with no reaction from the dog.

The next step is to repeat the exercise above – starting with the jogger far away as before and this time instead of the Watch, the dog is told to Wait. Again you work on getting the jogger closer and closer to the dog. At the end of each successful stage, the dog is rewarded with the ball being thrown. Until the dog is fully proofed in this exercise, we recommend that the long line is kept on the dog – even just dropped to the floor and with the owner’s foot on it. Remember that each and every time the dog engages in the inappropriate behaviour it is being reinforced, so rather prevent by using the long line in this situation until the dog is fully proofed in both above – keep the line as short as needed for as long as needed – prevention is the key.

Last step is same but off lead completely and starting with dog close by and gradually building up the distance. If successful, owner can start this exercise again in a more open area. I would keep on the Long Line and start from the beginning again.

If the dog was chasing cars, the same exercise as above would be done, but with the dog behind a park fence and on the Long line. Owner would slowly work to dog being right next to the fence with no reaction. This exercise can be taken further in the home environment, but using the pavement and a friend driving up and down.

Chasing the Cat

Cats – this can be another kettle of fish – to coin a phrase! You would first have to find out if the dog is tolerant of cats and if not, bring in the exercises below. If the dog is tolerant of cats and only chases them when they run, then a variation of above can be done.

Desensitizing a dog to cats and stopping them chasing cats

Management -Keep the dog and cats separate unless work is being done. Every single time the dog chases a cat the behaviour is being reinforced, so until dog is listening and obeying, the best policy is management with the practice as below.

Start to desensitize dog to the cats as follows and go over the section on introducing dogs and cats

Have one cat in the crate and have dog on lead a fair distance from the cat in the cage.
Have a handful of treats and owner stands with dog and does the Watch exercise. Keep on rewarding dog for watching you. If he looks at the cat, use the watch and get his attention back. He is allowed the odd glance/look, but that is all.
Slowly, over a time period make your way closer and closer to the crate repeating as above and I suggest only one step at a time.
When right next to the cage, keep on praising and treating for the behaviour you do want and practise the watch often. At this stage let dog smell the crate, then the watch and reward.
The importance of this exercise is that all treats stop the second either the cat or dog is taken away. The association then becomes that whenever the cat is around, good things happen.
The next stage is that this is repeated, from a distance but with the lead lying on the floor, even standing on it initially and you gradually work your way closer as above.
Last step is same but off lead completely.
The exercise is then practised again with the cat out of the crate and sitting on somebody’s lap. The final part is the same exercise but cat being allowed to walk around – dog is still on lead and the watch is kept in place.
As an additional exercise, owner can walk dog around the yard on lead when the cats are outside. Every time he walks past the cats and dog reacts, she gives a short, sharp flick of the lead, loud ‘NRM’ and what is extremely important is that owner praises immediately when dog stops. As dog walks quietly past the cats, owner rewards the good behaviour with praise and a treat. When exercise is over, they have a good game of ball and then the ball is taken away.
I suggest that a favourite ball or toy is kept only for the above and never given unless practicing.

It goes without saying that a dog must never be punished for engaging in this behaviour!

Assignment

You have a client with a Border collie pup that is already showing the behaviour of wanting to chase at only 12 weeks of age – what specific questions would you ask client and give a summary of what exercises you would suggest.
What is prey drive?
What sections is prey drive broken down into?
Give 3 reasons why excessive chasing may occur
What is one of the most important modifications to bring in?