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Module 2 - Section 3


Inoculations & Sterilization
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​1. Inoculations 

  1. Although there is much discussion going on at present as to whether annual vaccinations need to be given as dogs mature, a pup must receive its early vaccinations. What one needs to be aware of is that although a pup receives a certain amount of protection against disease from about two weeks after the initial vaccinations are given, the pup is NOT safe until about two weeks after the third set of vaccinations are given at about 16 weeks. This lack of knowledge often results in owners exposing pups to areas such as dog parks, walks in the street etc, where disease can easily be picked up. Parvo, for example can contaminate an area for 5 – 7 months unless the area is sterilized. As the virus is shed in the stool, one does not need the actual dog to be present. The main problem where Parvo is concerned and why is cannot be contained as yet, is that over 98% of the dogs in SA have not been vaccinated.
     
    This extract from an article in Puppy Health website gives one of the best descriptions to understand  why vacs are necessary: -
    “Vaccinations help “program” the specialize cells of the puppy’s immune system to act like smart missiles to seek and destroy problems before they cause disease. Once programmed, these cells recognize, find, and destroy viruses, bacteria or other pathogens both in the bloodstream or at the cellular level—in the nose or eyes—before they cause disease.

    A puppy’s immune system won’t be mature enough to protect itself until she’s about eight weeks old. Passive immunity fills this gap when the puppies nurse from the vaccinated mom-dog’s milk. This antibody rich “first milk” is called colostrum and protects against viruses that might threaten the puppy’s health. 

 
         However, the antibodies in mom’s milk also neutralize most vaccinations. The exceptions are some newer vaccinations made with recombinant DNA technology               such as the Recombinant Distemper Vaccination. But in general, puppy shots won’t be protective until Junior’s own immune system matures enough to take over.             That’s why a series of boosters are recommended during the period when Mom’s protection fades while Junior’s matures.” 


 You should always request a copy of the vacs that the pup has already received when adopting.  If the breeder/shelter says they will forward the vac certificate – walk away! When checking the vac card if owner/breeder has done the vacs themselves and there is not vet stamp – walk away! Taking an un-vaccinated puppy is a recipe for the pup harbouring possible disease and should not be considered under any circumstances, especially when other dogs are in the home.
 
If the pup is adopted from anywhere other than a registered, responsible, recommended breeder, we would suggest that your first stop on the way home would be at the vet. It is highly recommended that when a pup has been adopted from a rescue or shelter organization, that the pup does not attend either puppy socialization or any other classes for at least a 2-week period even if it has received the first two set of vacs. This is simply a precaution against any diseases that may be incubating but have not yet manifested in symptoms as yet, and could be viewed as a quarantine period.
 
Pup is not safe until all vacs given, so what do we do about puppy school and socialization?
 
Above we said that the pup is not 100% safe until 2 weeks after the 3rd set of vacs but by the same token we tell clients that the most important stage to socialize a pup is up to 16 weeks of age - so what happens?
 
The good news is that if you use basic common sense your pup should be safe. To start with, Puppy school should not be missed. If one attends a good puppy school, you will find that they will not accept a pup until at least the first two set of vacs have been given. This can change depending on how bad Parvo is in your particular area. In 2013 and first half of 2014, at our school we would only accept a pup two-weeks after third set of vacs. When the Parvo situation improved with much less cases, liaising with our vet we then started accepting immediately after second set of vacs If a puppy school does not ask for sight of your vacs cards when you apply – walk away - disease such as Parvo are highly contagious and you don’t even want an infected pup on your premises - the risk factors are much too high.
 
The above then makes the risk of infection slight compared to the very real risk of the pup developing serious behaviour problems later in life. Remember that the early socialization period sets the foundation for the pup’s future social interactions.
 
Places to be avoided are parks, dog parks, walking in the street and all areas where other dogs will be walking where you cannot confirm if either the area or the other dogs are safe until two weeks after the final set of vacs.
 
Some ideas of safe socialization: - 

  • Puppy play parties with pups from school or friends that have pups/dog that are deemed ‘safe’ from disease and well socialized to other dogs.
 
  • Drive to a shopping centre where dogs are not allowed and stand near the entrance. You can even place your pup on a mat for extra safety. People love pups, and this is a wonderful way for the pup to meet people of all ages, colours, sizes and dressed in an amazing assortment of clothes. Let people give the pup a food treat. Remember don’t overdo it, especially with a pup that may be slightly fearful. This will be covered in the fearful pup’s section.
  • Visit friends’ homes with adult dogs that you know have been vaccinated and are safe.
 
  • If your child attends dancing, scouts, Brownies, gym etc, take the puppy when you collect the child and take a lot of treats for the kids to give the pup. Remember again not to overdo this especially if the pup is in any way fearful.
 
The following was supplied courtesy of St. Francis Vet.: -
 
The standard vaccinations required for a pup in SA are the following: -  


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The combination-vaccines of dogs
The combination-vaccines of dogs consist of the following organisms:
 
Parvovirus ("Cat flu") 
A very contagious, deadly virus that affects dogs younger than a year old on average. Treatment is expensive and often of no avail. It is essential that you make sure that the pup you have chosen has been inoculated against this and Distemper. So many new adoptions end in heartbreak due to disease being present and the puppy cannot be saved. The reason why Parvo is so difficult to eradicate, is that 98% of dogs in SA have not been vaccinated.
 
Signs of Parvo 
Parvo can occur at any age, but pups are more susceptible to it. If you are going to be working with pups it is essential that you make yourself familiar with the first signs of the more common diseases. No pup should attend puppy school if is it even slightly off colour. Disease occurs quickly especially Parvo and can kill in a very short period of time and is highly contagious.
 
Parvo is transmitted by oral contact with infected faeces. It can be carried on the dog’s hair and feet and also on equipment, bedding and toys they have used. The incubation is on average 4 – 5 days and the first signs are normally vomiting and/or diarrhoea. Any pup with vomiting or diarrhoea that happens more than once must go to the vet.
 
Distemper 
A virus of equal danger, and also very contagious. This virus is similar to the human measles in humans.  Dogs of any age are susceptible if not vaccinated properly and unvaccinated pups 6-12 weeks of age, are at a very high risk due to the maternal antibodies falling below protective levels – if the pup comes from a puppy farmer there is a good chance that the mom has never received the vacs and this disease is more common in dogs who are poorly nourished and ill-kept.
 The trouble with distemper is that not all dogs that are infected show symptoms – some show mild symptoms and others no symptoms at all. Distemper tends to attack brain cells and cells that line the surface of the body. Normally if signs are present they will appear 6-9 days after infection.
 
 If signs are there it is normally a loss of appetite, fever, a watery discharge from either eyes or nose (or both). Any pup that is off its food should be taken to the vet. After a few days the discharge from eyes and nose becomes thick and is normally yellow and sticky and a cough develops. At this stage vomiting and diarrhoea may occur and also pus blisters may appear on the tummy.

Adenovirus 
Vaccination protects against upper airway disease as well as a liver disease that occurs seldom these days.
 
Parainfluenza 
Causes upper airway disease.

Some vaccines include the following organisms:
 
Coronavirus 
On its own causes light diarrhoea but causes severe disease if simultaneous infection with parvovirus occurs.
 
Leptospirosis 
Can cause liver and kidney disease. Associated with rodents.
 
Bordetella
This bacteria is one of the causes of Kennel cough. The vaccine is administered by nose and provides immunity within a few days. It is required by some dog kennels over and above the combination-vaccine and rabies. 

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2. Sterilization

In addition to stopping unwanted pregnancies, sterilization tends to be curative when the problem behaviour the dog is exhibiting is of a sexual nature. The male dog will exhibit behaviours which are influenced by testosterone i.e. humping, scent marking, roaming (to find mates), reactive behaviour towards other males and often reactive behaviour to determine its rank in the canine pack.
 
Statistics (overseas) prove that the majority of dog bites to human are made by un-neutered males. The largest of percentage of roaming dogs are un-neutered males and the largest incidence of dog to dog aggression happens with un-neutered male dogs.
 
Research, both here in SA by the late Dr. Odendaal and by experts overseas, has shown that when a male dog is sterilized there has been a definite reduction of certain problem behaviours, such as the following: - 
   
Mounting Behaviour
Reduction of 60 %

Roaming
Reduction of 90%

Intra Male Aggression 
Reduction of 60%

Urine Marking 
Reduction of 50%

In an adult dog it can take between 6 weeks and up to three months for the testosterone levels to drop completely and for a change to be seen in the dog’s behaviour – this is dependent on the age when the dog is sterilized and if an adult dog, average is 3 months. The average age in SA for dogs to be sterilized at present is 6 months of age and this is because on average a dog’s hormone levels will peak at 8 months of age. 
 
 In addition, to keep a dog intact, without being allowed to engage in its natural instinct of reproduction, is frustrating to dogs. Remembering that a dog’s sense of smell so much stronger than our own, and an intact male can scent a female in heat during her twice annual hormonal surges which can make a female dog more irritable, subdued, depressed and nervous for up to three month each season and, in the case of pseudo /phantom pregnancies, make her aggressive towards other dogs and humans while she “protects” and “defends” her substitute puppies, which may be one of your kid’s toys or even your own slippers!
 
 Sterilization can increase our dog’s life expectancy. Sterilization prevents testicular and prostate cancer and eliminates uterine infection and the risk of mammary cancer in females.

It will reduce the possibility of your dog going ‘walk about’ to find a potential mate.
You will often find that other dogs will react immediately an intact dog comes into their space – the reason? The intact male smells different and is immediately seen as a threat.

Finally, sterilization is the most effective and humane way of reducing the number of executions of stray or discarded dogs whose only crime is that they are unwanted!

 Disadvantages of Sterilization
There are disadvantages to consider with sterilization, and we suggest you discuss these with your local vet.  Here are the reasons: -
 
  • It does involve risks from anaesthesia and surgery.
  • Not all dogs recover quickly, and some may need post-operative care and/or observation.
  • Side effects, such as loss of appetite, lethargy and diarrhoea are possible.
  • There has been research done that indicates that although spaying reduces the incidence of reproductive cancers and uterine infections, that spayed bitches do have a higher risk of developing other types of cancer, joint problems and thyroid disease.
  • When a male dog is neutered, the amount of testosterone is greatly reduced but this hormone is not eliminated completely. This means that if you have a dog that roams a lot or is very aggressive, the sterilization may assist in reducing this behaviour, but it is not a guarantee that it will stop it altogether. This is where behaviour modification comes in.
  • In some female dogs, especially if reactive behaviour and/or resource guarding has been present previously; it does occur that the behaviour could get worse, not better. I have only come across two dogs since I started working professionally where this has occurred. Situations such as these are normally monitored by the vet and hormone replacement therapy is undertaken.
  • In some very dominant type bitches, the reduction of hormones will result in the bitch starting to lift her leg to eliminate, rather than squat.
Especially in the big breeds more and more people are recommending that the dog is only sterilized when about 18 months of age.
Until further research really does prove that sterilizations can cause major problems, given the huge number of unwanted puppies, our opinion is that sterilizing your dog is part of responsible pet ownership and only reputable breeders should have dogs that are entire.
 

 3.  Development Stages

Just like humans, dogs are of the species that matures slowly after birth. The pup is not completely developed and is incapable of surviving on its own. Not all, but the majority of mammals experience a socialization period, during which; they can happily accept new and novel experiences. The length varies between species and with puppies it is believed that the most important period is from 3 weeks to approximately 16 weeks of age. After that, the ‘curtain’ comes down and it is much harder to habituate a dog to new experiences. This period is timed to coincide with the period when dogs living in the wild begin to wander further away from the den. This is why it is vital to socialize the pups as much as possible in this period and expose it to new and novel situations and locations.
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The following table will show you the development stages up to 16 weeks of age. This is a rough figure and changes to up to 18 weeks with some breeds.




​Stage One - Birth – 13 days
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This is approximately from birth to 13 days and is also called the Neonatal Stage/Period. Imprinting between mother and pups takes place. The pup is born almost helpless; it is blind, deaf, has no teeth and can only crawl in a limited manner. It can’t control bodily functions such as elimination and body temperature and is really a creature of reflexes. Its world consists of food and bodily contact with the mother and littermates. If it doesn’t get food or the bodily contact it needs, it will either whimper or whine.
Stage Two  -  13 – 21 days
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This is approximately from birth to 13 days and is also called the Neonatal Stage/Period. Imprinting between mother and pups takes place. The pup is born almost helpless; it is blind, deaf, has no teeth and can only crawl in a limited manner. It can’t control bodily functions such as elimination and body temperature and is really a creature of reflexes. Its world consists of food and bodily contact with the mother and littermates. If it doesn’t get food or the bodily contact it needs it will either whimper or whine.
 
Also called the Transition Period. Between 13 to 19 days it will open its eyes and ears, but both are very limited and will slowly begin responding to light, movement and sound. The pup starts to be able to control bodily functions. The milk teeth start appearing and it can start eating solid food and pups will attempt to get up on their feet, but continue crawling, often backwards. They will start to recognize mom and littermates. Toward the end of this period they may begin trying to get out of the whelping box.
Many breeders start introducing novel stimuli into the whelping box and start to pick up and interact with the puppies.

28 days – 16 weeks
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This is a very important period with rapid sensory development and is often termed the Awareness Stage.  Pup becomes alert to its environment and will startle easily at sudden sounds and movements and the ear canals are fully open. The pup may start to recognize the breeder and people it sees on a daily basis. It is able to regulate his body temperature. Dr. Dunbar believes that this particular stage is even more important than previously believed. He says that this is a stage wherein breeders need to do all they can to socialize a puppy and let it meet as many different people and be exposed to as many different sounds and experiences as possible and this to be continued until the pup goes to its new home as 8 weeks.
 
This and the previous period overlap, and in some books, it is broken down into further stages of between 19-49 days and termed the Canine Socialization Stage.  The second breakdown is Human Socialization Stage which occurs at 7-12 weeks and the last being the Fear Period between 8 – 11 weeks. However, we along with others believe that these stages overlap. Dr. Dunbar spoke of how the tests that pups were exposed to in order to the first fear period were not adequate to confirm this stage.

This is also a critical period of development of social awareness for both canine socialization and human socialization. Play behaviour becomes increasingly intense. Pups start to develop problem solving abilities and coordination becomes better. Between four to five weeks of age pups begin to show the first signs of aggressive behaviour and they will engage in conflict with their litter mates.

Between 5 to 7 weeks is the time when the pup learns to relate to self and to its litter mates. The pup starts to learn about Bite Inhibition by playing with its litter mates. Many pups found in pet shops are approximately 6 weeks of age (some younger) and miss out on this crucial period in their lives. Many of the dogs we work with for fear behaviour have been adopted at 6 weeks of age. Who knows how long before that they were taken to the pet shop?? Many good breeders start to isolate their pups for short periods of time in order to get them adjusted to leaving the pack and you can suggest to owners that they ask the breeders to practice this.

At about 6 weeks the eyes focus completely, and weaning takes place between 6 – 8 weeks. At about 8 weeks is the normal time for the brain waves to have developed into that of an adult dog and this is the time many pups go to their new homes. An associate in USA says that it is actually illegal in the state of Colorado to remove a pup from its dam before 8 weeks of age.

The period from 3 to 16 weeks is the most important part of your pup’s education and the utmost care must be taken to ensure that all experiences are positive ones.

4.Medical Insurance
 
In today’s age and with the rising cost of vet service, plus the advances in vet science where more conditions can be treated than ever before, it really can be expensive, and it is well worth considering medical insurance. This is especially relevant as your dog becomes a senior.  The following was written for us, by Munro Deysel, and expert, with many years’ experience in the Insurance industry.  At the end we have supplied you to a link on Q and A on Pet Insurance, where you can find more information and also ask any questions you may have. 

   What is Pet Medical Insurance and How Does It Work?
 
Pet medical insurance products are contracts of short-term insurance (not medical aids) designed to cover the unexpected, unforeseen and fortuitous veterinary fees/expenses/costs that cats and dogs kept as household pets in South Africa may incur as the result of illness or injury.
 
There are variations on the underlying theme e.g. one gets pet medical insurance policies providing cover for veterinary costs/fees/expenses related to accidents only. By definition these policies do not cover any costs/fees/expenses related to illness. Because they cover a lower risk, premiums for these policies are invariably cheaper than those covering illness and accident veterinary expenses.
 
Please note the intention of underwriters: They intend to cover veterinary fees/expenses/costs which are unexpected, unforeseen and fortuitous. This means that veterinary expenses which are foreseeable, anticipated and within the pet owners’ control are not covered. These expenses are usually referred to as “routine expenses” and include inter alia costs related to periodic vaccinations, voluntary sterilisation, de-worming, dental cleansing, tic and flea control, etc.
 
Think of car insurance: Nobody insures a car knowing that he/she is going to have an accident or actually planning to have an accident next Tuesday. One insures a car hoping never to have an accident, but if the unforeseen happens, then you have the insurance to cover the expenses/loss resulting therefrom. Pet medical insurance works on exactly the same principle.

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 Helping you Decipher the Terminology used in Pet Medical Insurance  
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 Below are some of the most commonly used terms in pet medical insurance policies.
 
The list is not exhaustive, and the definitions of the terms might differ from underwriter to underwriter.
 
* Accident / accidental - means any external, visible, violent, sudden, and fortuitous occurrence resulting in bodily injury to your pet and which requires immediate medical attention. Accidental conditions are covered from the date of inception of the policy. Babesia (tick bite fever) and erlichia are deemed to be accidents.

* Annual / per annum - refers to the 365 day period from the date of inception of the policy to the day before the anniversary date of the policy (both days included).

* Behavioural conditions / disorder - mean any changes in your pet’s normal behaviour as a result of a mental or emotional disorder certified by a Vet.

* Certificate of Insurance - means the current certificate containing your personal details, your pet's details, the Plan you selected and the benefits payable thereunder.

* Complementary treatment / alternative treatment - are treatments not forming part of mainstream veterinary science and for the purpose of this policy include but are not limited to acupuncture, chiropractic, gold bead implants, homeopathy, hydrotherapy, physiotherapy, rehabilitation therapy and supplements.

* Cover - means the benefits of the Plan selected by you.

* Excess - is the first amount payable towards a claim which you must pay subject to the terms and Conditions of the policy.

* Inception date - means the date when the insurance cover incepts. The policy incepts at 24h00 on the inception date as shown on your Certificate of Insurance.

* Injury - means physical injury caused to your pet by an accident not excluded. 

* Illness - means any changes to your pet’s normal healthy state or bodily functions, sickness or disease as diagnosed by a Vet, which is not caused by injury to your pet and first manifests itself 31 days or later after the inception date of the policy.

* Insured - means the policyholder named in the Certificate of Insurance.

* Medical Condition - means a disease, illness or injury that manifests in clinical signs not normal to the animal. It is an abnormal condition of a part, organ or system of an animal resulting from various causes such as infection, inflammation, old age, trauma and injury and environmental factors. It is characterised by an identifiable group of signs or symptoms or both. A biological state which is within the range of normal animal variation is not a medical condition.

* Pandemic disease - means any disease that causes illness occurring over a wide geographic area and affecting an exceptionally high proportion of the cat or dog population.

* Pet - means any dog and/or cat older than 8 weeks and younger than nine years at the time of application for insurance and which is named and described on the Application Form and on the Certificate of Insurance.

* Policy-  means the ABC Pet Insurance Policy underwritten by (Insurance company name).

* Policy benefit / benefit - means that portion of a claim payable by us subject to the terms and conditions of the policy.

* Policy period - commences on the policy inception date and ends the date upon which your policy automatically terminates or its cancellation date.

* Pre-existing - condition means a condition, disease, illness, injury, infirmity or weakness, which either existed or showed clinical signs of existing or which was treated before the inception date of the first policy period or within the applicable time excess or the recurrence of such a condition, disease, injury, illness, infirmity or weakness.

* Time excess  -means the period between the inception date of the policy and the date from which you may claim benefits for illness. You may claim for illness conditions which arise 31 days or longer after the inception date of your policy.

* Treatment - means any examination, consultation, advice, tests, hospitalisation, surgery, X-rays, medication, nursing and other care provided by or under supervision of a Vet.

* Vet - means any general or specialist Veterinarian who at the time of treatment was registered with the South African Veterinary Council (SAVC).

* Veterinary fees / expenses / costs - mean the reasonable and customary fees vets in general or referral practices usually charge subject to the Veterinary Fees Advice as published by the * South African Veterinary Council (SAVC). If fees charged are considered by us to be excessive or unreasonable, then benefits will be paid based on the reasonable, customary and normal fees typically charged for the treatment of that condition

* Veterinary practice - means a Veterinary hospital, clinic or consulting rooms/surgery legally registered with the South African Veterinary Council (SAVC).

* We, our, us means - (Name) Insurance Company Limited, an authorised financial service provider, (FSP Number ________, company registration number _______________) or their authorised representatives.

* Year - refers to the 365 days period from the date of inception of the policy to the day before the anniversary date of the policy (both days included).

* You, your, yours - means the Insured. 

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Why is it important not to purchase insurance based on the lowest premium?

​​The premiums underwriters charge, are direct proportional to the risk they are prepared to
underwrite and the level of cover they are prepared to give.        
 
For higher premiums one can expect the acceptance of a higher risk and higher levels of cover.
 
Lower premiums reflect lower risk acceptance and the limitations of the types and
amounts of cover they provide.
 
Low premium policies e.g. will limit hospitalisation to R1,000 per claim and R2,000 per annum. Prescription medicine e.g. will be limited to per claim R750. These are all wholly inadequate levels of cove. Ask for the schedule of benefits before you sign up for anything.
 
The simple rule is that the more you pay, the more you get; the less you pay, the less you get.
Buyer beware!


How to compare pet medical insurance policies and what questions to ask
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The object of this article is to educate and inform pet owners, so they can make informed decisions regarding the training of, care for and enhancing the well-being of their pets.
 
Pet medical insurance is a complex product and to understand all the terms and conditions of any one of the policies available in the market is difficult. To do a comparative analysis of some is even more perplexing.

In order to help our readers to do a comparative analysis before committing to any product, we provide you with the following table and some questions:   
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 or Questions pet owners should ask pet medical insurance product owners:
  1. What is the per claim excess?
  2. Does your policy have a co-payment period? If so, what are the terms thereof?
  3. What are the routine care benefits of your policy?
  4. What are the chronic care benefits of your policy?
  5. What is the minimum and maximum age limits for accepting pets onto your policy?
  6. Does your policy provide cover for life once the pet is on the policy?
  7. Do you have any breed exclusion(-s)?
  8. May I use the vet of my choice?
  9. Do you provide pre-authorisation, financial guarantees and direct payments to vets?
  10. Do you provide multiple pet discounts?
  11. Do you allow for annual premiums? Are they discounted?
  12. Once I have submitted all documentation, in how many work days will you settle my claim?
 There are many other questions and the product comparison can be done in much more detail but getting the information and answers to all the questions will enable any pet owner to make an informed decision.
 
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