Be Your Dog's Best Friend
Module 2 - Section 2
Module 2 - Section 2
Breeds :
1.Choosing the Breed
- Choosing the Breed
- Breed Groups
- Breeds that tend not to get along
- Will any existing dogs tolerate a puppy
- Where to purchase the pup
- One or two pups
- What to look for in a pup
1.Choosing the Breed
The decision has been made, a pup will be purchased. Now comes one of the most exciting parts – choosing a breed. As we said earlier, this new addition to your family will be with the family for between 7 to 15 years and in some cases even longer, so do take the time to consider carefully which breed will be the best match for you.
Once the choice has been broken down to two or three breeds, more research needs to be done. Go and visit two or three puppy classes near where you live. Not only will you see which one you would prefer to take your own pup too, but you can see the different breeds and how they interact with other pups and their owners. If you have young children and are looking for more of a ‘child friendly’ dog, you can see how the pups interact with children.
Don’t leave it here! You have been observing puppies which have not developed to their full potential, go and look at different obedience classes in your area where you can see adult version of your choice of dog. Look at how easy (or difficult) they are to handle. Speak to the person running the class and ask their opinion on their choice as well as the individual owners. A beginner’s class, with dogs between the ages of 8 months to 18 months is the ideal class to watch as these are very often owners who are having problems with their adolescent dogs.
Other things you can do is to visit dog shows, both breed specific and general, as well as agility shows and not to forget the local dog walk places. This will give a really good idea as to how the breed develops. We have yet to find a dog owner (us included!) who will not talk for hours on the attributes of their chosen breed.
We suggest you visit your local vet and speak to both the receptionists and the vets themselves. Doing further research such as this, and even visiting grooming parlours will help tremendously and, may narrow the selection as to what to buy.
2. Breed Groups
Having a good understanding of the various breeds, what they were bred for, and how this will affect their behaviour, is vital knowledge for potential owners.
Breeds are broken down into different groups and it should be remembered that although the
breeds fall within group classifications; each and every breed is unique and should be studied accordingly – as should each and every dog. The main Groups are: -
Gundogs (in the US, this group are known of as Sporting Dogs)
This group consists of a large variety of breeds, such as the Spaniels, Retrievers, Pointers and Setters. And within the group there are subdivisions. The majority of these dog’s love water and were bred as being a hunter’s assistant to flush and retrieve game.
These dogs tend to be confident, good with people and other dogs (always remember that this may be a natural tendency, but socialization still has to be undertaken and maintained) due to being bred to work with people and other dogs. They enjoy direction and need to work. As they tend to be active, confident dogs, which can often become a bit too boisterous, they do better with owners that have dog knowledge and training skills. All dogs in this breed require a good amount of exercise and of course, due to the instinctive behaviour, thoroughly enjoy games of ball throwing, retrieving etc.
Gundogs available via the KUSA website can be seen via this link. http://www.kusa.co.za/index.php/documents/breed-standards/gundog-group?start=30
Additionally, have a look at the breeds on the FOD website to get an idea about the various breeds. http://www.friendsofthedog.co.za/-dog-breeds.html
Once the choice has been broken down to two or three breeds, more research needs to be done. Go and visit two or three puppy classes near where you live. Not only will you see which one you would prefer to take your own pup too, but you can see the different breeds and how they interact with other pups and their owners. If you have young children and are looking for more of a ‘child friendly’ dog, you can see how the pups interact with children.
Don’t leave it here! You have been observing puppies which have not developed to their full potential, go and look at different obedience classes in your area where you can see adult version of your choice of dog. Look at how easy (or difficult) they are to handle. Speak to the person running the class and ask their opinion on their choice as well as the individual owners. A beginner’s class, with dogs between the ages of 8 months to 18 months is the ideal class to watch as these are very often owners who are having problems with their adolescent dogs.
Other things you can do is to visit dog shows, both breed specific and general, as well as agility shows and not to forget the local dog walk places. This will give a really good idea as to how the breed develops. We have yet to find a dog owner (us included!) who will not talk for hours on the attributes of their chosen breed.
We suggest you visit your local vet and speak to both the receptionists and the vets themselves. Doing further research such as this, and even visiting grooming parlours will help tremendously and, may narrow the selection as to what to buy.
2. Breed Groups
Having a good understanding of the various breeds, what they were bred for, and how this will affect their behaviour, is vital knowledge for potential owners.
Breeds are broken down into different groups and it should be remembered that although the
breeds fall within group classifications; each and every breed is unique and should be studied accordingly – as should each and every dog. The main Groups are: -
Gundogs (in the US, this group are known of as Sporting Dogs)
This group consists of a large variety of breeds, such as the Spaniels, Retrievers, Pointers and Setters. And within the group there are subdivisions. The majority of these dog’s love water and were bred as being a hunter’s assistant to flush and retrieve game.
These dogs tend to be confident, good with people and other dogs (always remember that this may be a natural tendency, but socialization still has to be undertaken and maintained) due to being bred to work with people and other dogs. They enjoy direction and need to work. As they tend to be active, confident dogs, which can often become a bit too boisterous, they do better with owners that have dog knowledge and training skills. All dogs in this breed require a good amount of exercise and of course, due to the instinctive behaviour, thoroughly enjoy games of ball throwing, retrieving etc.
Gundogs available via the KUSA website can be seen via this link. http://www.kusa.co.za/index.php/documents/breed-standards/gundog-group?start=30
Additionally, have a look at the breeds on the FOD website to get an idea about the various breeds. http://www.friendsofthedog.co.za/-dog-breeds.html
Herding
The AKC (American Kennel Club) originally had this group as members of the Working Group, but in 1983 they were re-classified, and the Herding Group came about. Via the link to the KUSA Herding Group below you can see the breeds available in SA. This comprises a large group of dogs and not all are available here in SA. This group is primarily made up of the various Shepherds, Collies and Corgi.
This group of dogs are normally people, and other dog friendly (socialization required of course) although we have seen many a Collie gets itself into a potential altercation due to them having what is referred to as ‘clap eye or collie eye’. Due to their breeding they tend to stare at other dogs (reactive behaviour in dogs) and have a tendency to ‘stalk’ (either walking very slowly and purposefully or going down low and totally focused on other dog – while moving slowly, and body appears to be held tight) and other dogs often misinterpret the dog’s approach as threatening. Mind you we have seen people that don’t know the Collie, being nervous as one approaches in this manner and quickly try to get their dogs out the way!
On average this group are very intelligent dogs that do well in training and thrive on learning new skills. However, they can be rather sensitive and do better with an owner that has dog knowledge and training. They also love to work and need good regular walks and stimulation and can be "over the top" (OTT) and prone to compulsive behaviour (OCD) dogs. Common
behaviour problems are chasing, herding, nipping at heels. The link on this group is
http://www.kusa.co.za/index.php/documents/breed-standards/herding-group
The AKC (American Kennel Club) originally had this group as members of the Working Group, but in 1983 they were re-classified, and the Herding Group came about. Via the link to the KUSA Herding Group below you can see the breeds available in SA. This comprises a large group of dogs and not all are available here in SA. This group is primarily made up of the various Shepherds, Collies and Corgi.
This group of dogs are normally people, and other dog friendly (socialization required of course) although we have seen many a Collie gets itself into a potential altercation due to them having what is referred to as ‘clap eye or collie eye’. Due to their breeding they tend to stare at other dogs (reactive behaviour in dogs) and have a tendency to ‘stalk’ (either walking very slowly and purposefully or going down low and totally focused on other dog – while moving slowly, and body appears to be held tight) and other dogs often misinterpret the dog’s approach as threatening. Mind you we have seen people that don’t know the Collie, being nervous as one approaches in this manner and quickly try to get their dogs out the way!
On average this group are very intelligent dogs that do well in training and thrive on learning new skills. However, they can be rather sensitive and do better with an owner that has dog knowledge and training. They also love to work and need good regular walks and stimulation and can be "over the top" (OTT) and prone to compulsive behaviour (OCD) dogs. Common
behaviour problems are chasing, herding, nipping at heels. The link on this group is
http://www.kusa.co.za/index.php/documents/breed-standards/herding-group
Hounds
This breed was the earliest recorded dogs used by man for hunting, are well known for their scenting abilities and stamina, and you will find both Sight and Scent Hounds in this group. Some of these dogs love to indulge in baying, however, the noise is not liked by everyone. This is a very diverse group and some are Blood Hounds, Pharaoh Hounds, Norwegian Elkhounds, Afghans and Beagles, among others.
As a group in general, they get on well with people and other dogs but many of them can appear rather aloof, and if they are not coping (in a training set up for example) will simply ‘switch off’ and virtually nothing the owner can do will get their attention.
In general they do not have a good attention span, and it is better to work with them in short increments and concentrate rather on the things they do like to do. This breed was developed to work on their own, away from their handlers, so they tend to be independent thinkers.
Problems that arise with this breed is that their senses are so well developed that they seem to pick up on every movement and scent, and if a Basset that has picked up a scent he likes while out training or for a walk, his natural inclination is to follow it. It is this breed more than any of the others where the Real Reliable Recall is an important part of daily training and started as soon as possible.
The link to the KUSA site to see which dogs fall under this group is: http://www.kusa.co.za/index.php/documents/breed-standards/hound-group
This breed was the earliest recorded dogs used by man for hunting, are well known for their scenting abilities and stamina, and you will find both Sight and Scent Hounds in this group. Some of these dogs love to indulge in baying, however, the noise is not liked by everyone. This is a very diverse group and some are Blood Hounds, Pharaoh Hounds, Norwegian Elkhounds, Afghans and Beagles, among others.
As a group in general, they get on well with people and other dogs but many of them can appear rather aloof, and if they are not coping (in a training set up for example) will simply ‘switch off’ and virtually nothing the owner can do will get their attention.
In general they do not have a good attention span, and it is better to work with them in short increments and concentrate rather on the things they do like to do. This breed was developed to work on their own, away from their handlers, so they tend to be independent thinkers.
Problems that arise with this breed is that their senses are so well developed that they seem to pick up on every movement and scent, and if a Basset that has picked up a scent he likes while out training or for a walk, his natural inclination is to follow it. It is this breed more than any of the others where the Real Reliable Recall is an important part of daily training and started as soon as possible.
The link to the KUSA site to see which dogs fall under this group is: http://www.kusa.co.za/index.php/documents/breed-standards/hound-group
Terriers
Terriers were originally bred as hunting dogs in Britain specifically for going after animals that burrow such as rabbits, rats, fox, badgers etc. These dogs are split into two basic coat differences i.e. smooth and rough coated and the majority of them are smaller type dogs with the exception of the Airedale.
Sizes range from fairly small, as in the Norfolk, Cairn or West Highland White Terrier, Jack Russell, Fox Terrier, Staffordshire Bull Terrier, Bull Terrier etc - the exception being the larger Bedlington Terrier and the Airedale Terrier.
They are incredibly tenacious dogs and seldom give up. They enjoy people and are very loyal but can be reactive towards other dogs – even those they live with. Many of this breed do better being ‘only’ dogs and early and continued socialization is a ‘must do’.
They are clever and bright and not difficult to train, but do require patience, commitment, and owner needs to understand how these dogs think. As one would imagine, apart from possible intolerance to other dogs and possible reactive behaviour, one of the problems that people come across with these breed is their natural inclination to dig.
The KUSA link to see the breeds involved is http://www.kusa.co.za/index.php/documents/breed-standards/terrier-group
Terriers were originally bred as hunting dogs in Britain specifically for going after animals that burrow such as rabbits, rats, fox, badgers etc. These dogs are split into two basic coat differences i.e. smooth and rough coated and the majority of them are smaller type dogs with the exception of the Airedale.
Sizes range from fairly small, as in the Norfolk, Cairn or West Highland White Terrier, Jack Russell, Fox Terrier, Staffordshire Bull Terrier, Bull Terrier etc - the exception being the larger Bedlington Terrier and the Airedale Terrier.
They are incredibly tenacious dogs and seldom give up. They enjoy people and are very loyal but can be reactive towards other dogs – even those they live with. Many of this breed do better being ‘only’ dogs and early and continued socialization is a ‘must do’.
They are clever and bright and not difficult to train, but do require patience, commitment, and owner needs to understand how these dogs think. As one would imagine, apart from possible intolerance to other dogs and possible reactive behaviour, one of the problems that people come across with these breed is their natural inclination to dig.
The KUSA link to see the breeds involved is http://www.kusa.co.za/index.php/documents/breed-standards/terrier-group
Toy
Many of the Toy breed were developed from larger working dogs by the process of miniaturization and selective breeding and are basically companion dogs, although there is nothing ‘toy’ about them. They are equally capable of all the behaviours that larger dogs exhibit, and can be fiercely protective.
Some of the more common of the Toy Group are Bichon Frise, Yorkshire Terrier, Chihuahua, Cavalier King Charles Spaniel, Italian Greyhound, Toy Pom, Peke, Miniature Pinscher, Maltese Poodle etc
Read full article here: http://www.breedia.com/dogs/kusa/toy-group
The most common problems we see in dogs like this is over attachment, separation anxiety and yapping/barking, as well as intolerance to certain types of people and other dogs, which we believe comes from fear, as people seem to think that small dogs don’t need socialization in general just because they are small, so they do not get the opportunity to build a solid social structure in many cases.
On average easy to train and clever, but unfortunately as in puppy training above, these dogs are not taken to training enough and tend to get away with many behaviour problems that would not be tolerated in a bigger dog, due both to their size and the owner accepting behaviour is would not accept in a larger dog. Many people seem to this of these dogs as their ‘children’, rather than as dogs –to the dog’s detriment!
The link to the Toy breed on KUSA is http://www.kusa.co.za/index.php/documents/breed-standards/toy-group
Many of the Toy breed were developed from larger working dogs by the process of miniaturization and selective breeding and are basically companion dogs, although there is nothing ‘toy’ about them. They are equally capable of all the behaviours that larger dogs exhibit, and can be fiercely protective.
Some of the more common of the Toy Group are Bichon Frise, Yorkshire Terrier, Chihuahua, Cavalier King Charles Spaniel, Italian Greyhound, Toy Pom, Peke, Miniature Pinscher, Maltese Poodle etc
Read full article here: http://www.breedia.com/dogs/kusa/toy-group
The most common problems we see in dogs like this is over attachment, separation anxiety and yapping/barking, as well as intolerance to certain types of people and other dogs, which we believe comes from fear, as people seem to think that small dogs don’t need socialization in general just because they are small, so they do not get the opportunity to build a solid social structure in many cases.
On average easy to train and clever, but unfortunately as in puppy training above, these dogs are not taken to training enough and tend to get away with many behaviour problems that would not be tolerated in a bigger dog, due both to their size and the owner accepting behaviour is would not accept in a larger dog. Many people seem to this of these dogs as their ‘children’, rather than as dogs –to the dog’s detriment!
The link to the Toy breed on KUSA is http://www.kusa.co.za/index.php/documents/breed-standards/toy-group
Utility (In US this group is known as Non-Sporting Dogs)
This group are dogs which were each bred for a specific function, but just don’t fit into any of the other breed groups. It is the most diverse of all the groups often with no common characteristics and come in all shapes and sizes, from the Boston Terrier, Bichon Frise, Chow Chow to the Bulldog, to the Shar Pei, so you can see how very diverse this group is.
As this group is so diverse and bred for different functions, behaviour concerns need to be looked at on the basis of the individual breeds as opposed to Group behaviour concerns.
The KUSA link to the breeds falling into this group is. http://www.kusa.co.za/index.php/documents/breed-standards/utility-group
This group are dogs which were each bred for a specific function, but just don’t fit into any of the other breed groups. It is the most diverse of all the groups often with no common characteristics and come in all shapes and sizes, from the Boston Terrier, Bichon Frise, Chow Chow to the Bulldog, to the Shar Pei, so you can see how very diverse this group is.
As this group is so diverse and bred for different functions, behaviour concerns need to be looked at on the basis of the individual breeds as opposed to Group behaviour concerns.
The KUSA link to the breeds falling into this group is. http://www.kusa.co.za/index.php/documents/breed-standards/utility-group
Working
This group was bred for guarding, protection, pulling (carts, sleds etc) and certain rescue work (St. Bernard), and as a group are all large dogs. Many of these breeds can be reactive to both people and other dogs due to the job they were designed to do such as protection work.
Some of these include Bernese Mountain Dog, Boer Boel, Boxer, Dobermann, Great Dane, Giant Schnauzer, Mastiff, Rottweiler, St. Bernard to mention but a few.
They are not always easy to handle due to their size and owners that are knowledgeable in dogs and training and who can put in place the do’s and don’ts and control any aspect of the dogs behaviour i.e. an owner that the dog sees as in charge in the human/canine relationship and who the dog respects.
KUSA link to the various breeds.
http://www.kusa.co.za/index.php/documents/breed-standards/working-group
This group was bred for guarding, protection, pulling (carts, sleds etc) and certain rescue work (St. Bernard), and as a group are all large dogs. Many of these breeds can be reactive to both people and other dogs due to the job they were designed to do such as protection work.
Some of these include Bernese Mountain Dog, Boer Boel, Boxer, Dobermann, Great Dane, Giant Schnauzer, Mastiff, Rottweiler, St. Bernard to mention but a few.
They are not always easy to handle due to their size and owners that are knowledgeable in dogs and training and who can put in place the do’s and don’ts and control any aspect of the dogs behaviour i.e. an owner that the dog sees as in charge in the human/canine relationship and who the dog respects.
KUSA link to the various breeds.
http://www.kusa.co.za/index.php/documents/breed-standards/working-group
Teacup Variety – we make mention of this solely to educate. Not one of the official Registering Bodies recognize the Teacup – why? It is the result of using the ‘runts’ of the litter for breeding purposes. These little one’s may look gorgeous and appealing, however, if considering purchasing, do some homework – first with your vet and then the Internet. These little one’s are prone to a tremendous amount of health problems.
3 . Breeds that tend not to get along
We have recently added in a section on the Friends of the Dog website called Breed Compatibility Match, to help owners decide as to whether the breeds will get on. This is aimed at novice, not experienced owners. The link is http://www.friendsofthedog.co.za/breed-compatibility.html.
Many dogs are deemed dangerous, to both other dogs and humans, but there are some breeds that we have found are really not good when there are two or more of them, especially any of the fighting breeds. Jack Russel’s can be very aggressive with other dogs, even those of the same breed as mentioned before, and a pup would have to be carefully monitored. Terriers, on average, are not good with other small animals such as cats, hamsters and birds due to their natural hunting instinct and if another Terrier pup is introduced the possibility of problems increases.
Another breed we would be hesitant about introducing a puppy to, is any of the fighting breeds, especially Pit Bulls. Again, we believe a lot of the bad publicity the breed has received has been a result of both bad breeding and bad or ignorant owners, but one must remember that these dogs were bred to fight and to be devoted to their humans, which could prove to be an additional problem when the attention from the owner is shared. Another point regarding Pit Bulls is that they tend to fight silently, so there is not a lot of warning that a fight is about to begin – they just seem to fly at the other dog with no calming signals or signs of aggression happening before the attack.
However, we have also seen many Pit Bulls living together in harmony, but this takes a very special owner who is always on the lookout for trouble – unless you are a very experienced dog owner, know the breed well, we really suggest that all the Bullie breeds are ‘only’ dogs. However, this does not mean that they do not get extensive socialization – due to their breed, they should have even more socialization than usual.
Other dogs that often do not do well with other dogs are the Chinese Shar-Pei, Boerboel and Chow Chow - however so much of this depends on the individual dog - it is not written in stone but must be taken into account.
Another breed we are always hesitant about when going to introduce a pup, is the Golden Cocker Spaniel who, on occasion, may suffer from ‘rage’ syndrome which is unprovoked, uncontrollable aggression, and has been described as the dog appearing to have a fit, turning on whoever or whatever is closed and when it is over it is as if nothing ever happened. This seems to be genetic due to bad and indiscriminate breeding, where no thought at all has been put in regarding genetics. This rage syndrome is not always directed at other dogs, they can equally ‘loose it’ with their owners. With a reputable, responsible breeder being sought, the chances of this happening are considerably lowered. Even if there is no rage syndrome due to bad breeding this breed is not a laid back as it should be and can really be ‘otherwise’ dogs! There have also been reports of "Rage Syndrome" in St Bernard’s. Again, this is a result of irresponsible breeding or breeding within a gene pool that is too confined.
Rottweilers are also a breed very protective of their people and Daschund’s tend to be very impatient and can become snappy. Although we know of many Toy Poodles who live together in harmony, they may lash out in self-defence, especially if the new pup is very boisterous.
We have recently added in a section on the Friends of the Dog website called Breed Compatibility Match, to help owners decide as to whether the breeds will get on. This is aimed at novice, not experienced owners. The link is http://www.friendsofthedog.co.za/breed-compatibility.html.
Many dogs are deemed dangerous, to both other dogs and humans, but there are some breeds that we have found are really not good when there are two or more of them, especially any of the fighting breeds. Jack Russel’s can be very aggressive with other dogs, even those of the same breed as mentioned before, and a pup would have to be carefully monitored. Terriers, on average, are not good with other small animals such as cats, hamsters and birds due to their natural hunting instinct and if another Terrier pup is introduced the possibility of problems increases.
Another breed we would be hesitant about introducing a puppy to, is any of the fighting breeds, especially Pit Bulls. Again, we believe a lot of the bad publicity the breed has received has been a result of both bad breeding and bad or ignorant owners, but one must remember that these dogs were bred to fight and to be devoted to their humans, which could prove to be an additional problem when the attention from the owner is shared. Another point regarding Pit Bulls is that they tend to fight silently, so there is not a lot of warning that a fight is about to begin – they just seem to fly at the other dog with no calming signals or signs of aggression happening before the attack.
However, we have also seen many Pit Bulls living together in harmony, but this takes a very special owner who is always on the lookout for trouble – unless you are a very experienced dog owner, know the breed well, we really suggest that all the Bullie breeds are ‘only’ dogs. However, this does not mean that they do not get extensive socialization – due to their breed, they should have even more socialization than usual.
Other dogs that often do not do well with other dogs are the Chinese Shar-Pei, Boerboel and Chow Chow - however so much of this depends on the individual dog - it is not written in stone but must be taken into account.
Another breed we are always hesitant about when going to introduce a pup, is the Golden Cocker Spaniel who, on occasion, may suffer from ‘rage’ syndrome which is unprovoked, uncontrollable aggression, and has been described as the dog appearing to have a fit, turning on whoever or whatever is closed and when it is over it is as if nothing ever happened. This seems to be genetic due to bad and indiscriminate breeding, where no thought at all has been put in regarding genetics. This rage syndrome is not always directed at other dogs, they can equally ‘loose it’ with their owners. With a reputable, responsible breeder being sought, the chances of this happening are considerably lowered. Even if there is no rage syndrome due to bad breeding this breed is not a laid back as it should be and can really be ‘otherwise’ dogs! There have also been reports of "Rage Syndrome" in St Bernard’s. Again, this is a result of irresponsible breeding or breeding within a gene pool that is too confined.
Rottweilers are also a breed very protective of their people and Daschund’s tend to be very impatient and can become snappy. Although we know of many Toy Poodles who live together in harmony, they may lash out in self-defence, especially if the new pup is very boisterous.
4. Will existing dogs tolerate a pup in the home?
This is an area that many potential owners of pups fail to consider. We probably average at least one phone call from a panicked owner weekly saying that the existing dog will not tolerate the new addition. I have heard of pups both maimed and killed and having to be either be given away or sent to shelters due to the existing dog not tolerating the new addition. Here are some points to consider: -
Opposite sex is always the best and safest bet. Next best match is two males (majority of breeds, but there are exceptions, such as any fighting breeds), but ensure they are both neutered. Worst match is two females, especially if not sterilized. Whereas male dogs often have the occasional altercation to determine who it top of the pile in the dog hierarchy, they quickly get over it and forget their differences - females on the other hand often live up to their name of ‘bitches’!
Very often everything seems to go well until the new female reaches the 8 month period – not only is this the start of the adolescent period (breed dependant), it is also the time where status assumes enormous importance – especially to some dogs more than others, and fights can easily break out.
The difference between males and females in this situation is that many females will simply not give up establishing their status in the hierarchy ,especially breeds such as the Terrier groups and serious fighting can and often does occur, resulting in physical damage and even death in some cases.
Breed Compatibility – never to be overlooked. As already mentioned in the section on dogs that tend not to get along.
The existing dog’s social abilities. If the existing dog has never been socialized and especially if it is an ‘only’ dog, the chances of it accepting a puppy are slim to nil. This obviously depends a lot on your dog’s reaction to seeing other dogs when out for a walk. If the dog seems fine walking past and every so often having a smell of another dog, then this situation could be successful. If on the other hand, the existing dog is reactive towards other dogs, we would not consider bringing in a pup.
If the existing dog has any behaviour concerns such as barking, demanding attention, separation anxiety, destructive behaviour, many owners think that bringing in another do to keep the existing dog company is a good idea. Think again! All that happens in this scenario is that the owner will end up with two dogs exhibiting the unacceptable behaviour – any existing behaviour problems, must be well and truly extinguished before the pup is brought in.
This is an area that many potential owners of pups fail to consider. We probably average at least one phone call from a panicked owner weekly saying that the existing dog will not tolerate the new addition. I have heard of pups both maimed and killed and having to be either be given away or sent to shelters due to the existing dog not tolerating the new addition. Here are some points to consider: -
Opposite sex is always the best and safest bet. Next best match is two males (majority of breeds, but there are exceptions, such as any fighting breeds), but ensure they are both neutered. Worst match is two females, especially if not sterilized. Whereas male dogs often have the occasional altercation to determine who it top of the pile in the dog hierarchy, they quickly get over it and forget their differences - females on the other hand often live up to their name of ‘bitches’!
Very often everything seems to go well until the new female reaches the 8 month period – not only is this the start of the adolescent period (breed dependant), it is also the time where status assumes enormous importance – especially to some dogs more than others, and fights can easily break out.
The difference between males and females in this situation is that many females will simply not give up establishing their status in the hierarchy ,especially breeds such as the Terrier groups and serious fighting can and often does occur, resulting in physical damage and even death in some cases.
Breed Compatibility – never to be overlooked. As already mentioned in the section on dogs that tend not to get along.
The existing dog’s social abilities. If the existing dog has never been socialized and especially if it is an ‘only’ dog, the chances of it accepting a puppy are slim to nil. This obviously depends a lot on your dog’s reaction to seeing other dogs when out for a walk. If the dog seems fine walking past and every so often having a smell of another dog, then this situation could be successful. If on the other hand, the existing dog is reactive towards other dogs, we would not consider bringing in a pup.
If the existing dog has any behaviour concerns such as barking, demanding attention, separation anxiety, destructive behaviour, many owners think that bringing in another do to keep the existing dog company is a good idea. Think again! All that happens in this scenario is that the owner will end up with two dogs exhibiting the unacceptable behaviour – any existing behaviour problems, must be well and truly extinguished before the pup is brought in.
5. Where to purchase the pup
Size Matters – a large Rotti could easily sit and squash your Toy addition. What can also cause problems, is that the larger dog is kept outside away from the small dog - this very often, understandably causes tension and could result in aggression.
The age of the existing dog. Many owners think that because a dog has lost its companion due to death that bringing in a new puppy will provide company for an older dog. This is not always the case and although a new addition can sometimes seem to provide ‘renewed life’ for the existing older dog, not all dogs will accept a new puppy. We have given you more information on this topic under the section of Senior dogs for your consideration.
Health Concerns If the older dog has arthritis, Hip Dysplasia, or other health problems, it is unlikely to enjoy the constant attention of being jumped on by the new addition, who wants to play all the time. A lot of this will depend on the dog’s actual age and physical condition, and with some older dogs it is far better to allow them to enjoy their ‘golden years’ in peace and quiet.
Existing Pack Dynamics Other factors that may result in the pup not being accepted, even though the existing dogs have happily accepted a pup before, are the current hierarchy dynamics in play with the existing dogs. We have seen so many cases where dogs have always accepted a new addition, especially with people that foster dogs, and suddenly the latest new addition is just not accepted. We do not always realize it, but pack hierarchy is always changing. As one dog gets a bit older, a younger dog may try to increase its own standing in the current pack and will not take kindly to a new addition. If a new pup is brought in under a situation such as this, there is a definite chance that it will not be accepted and could also push the buttons in the existing pack and fighting can break out.
Where to purchase your pup from.
Golden Rule – Never take a child with you when viewing pups until you have made final decision!!
Size Matters – a large Rotti could easily sit and squash your Toy addition. What can also cause problems, is that the larger dog is kept outside away from the small dog - this very often, understandably causes tension and could result in aggression.
The age of the existing dog. Many owners think that because a dog has lost its companion due to death that bringing in a new puppy will provide company for an older dog. This is not always the case and although a new addition can sometimes seem to provide ‘renewed life’ for the existing older dog, not all dogs will accept a new puppy. We have given you more information on this topic under the section of Senior dogs for your consideration.
Health Concerns If the older dog has arthritis, Hip Dysplasia, or other health problems, it is unlikely to enjoy the constant attention of being jumped on by the new addition, who wants to play all the time. A lot of this will depend on the dog’s actual age and physical condition, and with some older dogs it is far better to allow them to enjoy their ‘golden years’ in peace and quiet.
Existing Pack Dynamics Other factors that may result in the pup not being accepted, even though the existing dogs have happily accepted a pup before, are the current hierarchy dynamics in play with the existing dogs. We have seen so many cases where dogs have always accepted a new addition, especially with people that foster dogs, and suddenly the latest new addition is just not accepted. We do not always realize it, but pack hierarchy is always changing. As one dog gets a bit older, a younger dog may try to increase its own standing in the current pack and will not take kindly to a new addition. If a new pup is brought in under a situation such as this, there is a definite chance that it will not be accepted and could also push the buttons in the existing pack and fighting can break out.
Where to purchase your pup from.
Golden Rule – Never take a child with you when viewing pups until you have made final decision!!
Pet Shop, Flea Market, Side of Road, Gumtree, Junk Mail? Most definitely not! Although these pups will be ‘cheap’ by comparison to some of the breeders, you could well end up paying a fortune in vet bills due to poor health and inherited defects and disease that could have been brewing , behaviour consults and you are probably inadvertently supporting a puppy mill somewhere.
No breeder worth his salt would ever consider taking one of his precious puppies to places such as these. Selling puppies at these places is emotional blackmail! These pups look so appealing and adorable, but what about their own and their parent’s health? Were the parents inoculated against all the know diseases? Are there any hereditary health or behaviour problems? Were the parents screened for breed specific genetic defects? Does the person running the pet shop have the knowledge to answer the questions you have?
We do not ‘blame’ the breeders and shops in the case of above; rather we ‘blame’ the canine profession for not educating people enough on where to buy their puppies. It is the potential owner’s responsibility to do the homework required before purchasing the pup.
There are several organizations that ‘register dogs’, officially supplying them with papers, but only KUSA (Kennel Union of SA) is recognized overseas and is really the only official body of a good breed standard.
Additionally, if a pup is registered with KUSA (Kennel Union of SA), that is all it has – papers. There are no checks done at all. This is the case with all KUSA registered dogs and over the last few years it was discovered that several of the KUSA breeders were actually engaging in puppy farming.
Many of the pet shops buy their pups from puppy mills that breed solely for profit. You may have seen some of the horrendous scenes of a puppy mill on Carte Blanche over the years, as well as the stories that abound on Facebook. That is not to say that all of them are as bad as the ones shown on the show, but there is no responsible breeding involved, and more often than not it results in inferior specimens of the breed, which may have the name of the breed on their papers, but, due to ‘mistakes’ do not act and often do not look anything like what they were meant to! Also think about the poor bitch, she would be mated every single season. Think also about what kind of conditions they are bred in and then kept in at the ‘breeder’ and the pet shop – would you like one of the pups you bred to end up like this?
The pups, due to having lived in small cramped cages (both at the puppy farm and pet shop) have no idea about toilet training, as they would have been confined to their cage. A dog will normally never eliminate where it sleeps and eats, but in cramped conditions such as above, the dog will eliminate anywhere, simply because it doesn’t have enough room. This could lead to possible soiling problems in the house and the pup ending up in a shelter.
Distemper is a disease which was virtually unheard of in SA until a number of years ago. Now, with puppies being sold in this manner it has come back again with a vengeance, and it really can be a killer. If the pup survives, it often has health scars to show for it, which in costing you money and many dogs end up physically disabled. Parvo virus is another killer disease and is rampant in Gauteng. Parvo is normally found in pups from puppy farmers; a pet shop etc and is highly contagious.
A pup should not be taken away from its mum until 8 weeks of age, the majority of dogs from these reprehensible places are in the region of 5-6 weeks of age – far too young, and have missed out on one of the most important parts of their education – how to relate to littler mates and self, and discipline from mom. So often we see dogs that are purchased at this age and the behaviour problems normally involve fear behaviour, often ending up with aggression, which is approximately 98% fear based.
Apart from the behavioural and health issue you are risking, what about the emotional side of things? You bring home this lovely little bundle of fluff and everybody in the home falls in love with it – then disaster strikes – it suddenly gets ill, you take it to the vet only to discover it has distemper or a similar disease – the puppy doesn’t make it – heartbreak for the whole family, especially if there are children – is it worth it just to save a bit of money?
Also bear in mind that every time you support these people, you are reinforcing the way they operate – rather give a pup a home from a shelter if a pup from a really good breeder is not an option.
No breeder worth his salt would ever consider taking one of his precious puppies to places such as these. Selling puppies at these places is emotional blackmail! These pups look so appealing and adorable, but what about their own and their parent’s health? Were the parents inoculated against all the know diseases? Are there any hereditary health or behaviour problems? Were the parents screened for breed specific genetic defects? Does the person running the pet shop have the knowledge to answer the questions you have?
We do not ‘blame’ the breeders and shops in the case of above; rather we ‘blame’ the canine profession for not educating people enough on where to buy their puppies. It is the potential owner’s responsibility to do the homework required before purchasing the pup.
There are several organizations that ‘register dogs’, officially supplying them with papers, but only KUSA (Kennel Union of SA) is recognized overseas and is really the only official body of a good breed standard.
Additionally, if a pup is registered with KUSA (Kennel Union of SA), that is all it has – papers. There are no checks done at all. This is the case with all KUSA registered dogs and over the last few years it was discovered that several of the KUSA breeders were actually engaging in puppy farming.
Many of the pet shops buy their pups from puppy mills that breed solely for profit. You may have seen some of the horrendous scenes of a puppy mill on Carte Blanche over the years, as well as the stories that abound on Facebook. That is not to say that all of them are as bad as the ones shown on the show, but there is no responsible breeding involved, and more often than not it results in inferior specimens of the breed, which may have the name of the breed on their papers, but, due to ‘mistakes’ do not act and often do not look anything like what they were meant to! Also think about the poor bitch, she would be mated every single season. Think also about what kind of conditions they are bred in and then kept in at the ‘breeder’ and the pet shop – would you like one of the pups you bred to end up like this?
The pups, due to having lived in small cramped cages (both at the puppy farm and pet shop) have no idea about toilet training, as they would have been confined to their cage. A dog will normally never eliminate where it sleeps and eats, but in cramped conditions such as above, the dog will eliminate anywhere, simply because it doesn’t have enough room. This could lead to possible soiling problems in the house and the pup ending up in a shelter.
Distemper is a disease which was virtually unheard of in SA until a number of years ago. Now, with puppies being sold in this manner it has come back again with a vengeance, and it really can be a killer. If the pup survives, it often has health scars to show for it, which in costing you money and many dogs end up physically disabled. Parvo virus is another killer disease and is rampant in Gauteng. Parvo is normally found in pups from puppy farmers; a pet shop etc and is highly contagious.
A pup should not be taken away from its mum until 8 weeks of age, the majority of dogs from these reprehensible places are in the region of 5-6 weeks of age – far too young, and have missed out on one of the most important parts of their education – how to relate to littler mates and self, and discipline from mom. So often we see dogs that are purchased at this age and the behaviour problems normally involve fear behaviour, often ending up with aggression, which is approximately 98% fear based.
Apart from the behavioural and health issue you are risking, what about the emotional side of things? You bring home this lovely little bundle of fluff and everybody in the home falls in love with it – then disaster strikes – it suddenly gets ill, you take it to the vet only to discover it has distemper or a similar disease – the puppy doesn’t make it – heartbreak for the whole family, especially if there are children – is it worth it just to save a bit of money?
Also bear in mind that every time you support these people, you are reinforcing the way they operate – rather give a pup a home from a shelter if a pup from a really good breeder is not an option.
Rescue Shelter It really makes one feel good to give a young puppy that may otherwise be put down a home, but whether or not you go this route is a very personal decision. If you have young children, we would not recommend adopting a pup from a rescue shelter. The main reason for this is that you have no idea at all how the pup will end up, whereas if you get a purebred dog from a reputable breeder (Nature) you have a much better chance of success, which is even more important when children are involved with the dog – however, having said that, we have known umpteen dogs that came from shelters as pups who made wonderful family dogs – some of our own dogs included!
You may even find that the pet shop puppy which has now grown somewhat and is no longer as cute and appealing, has been given to the shelter to home! The litters of back yard breeders who can’t find homes for the pups more often than not end up at a shelter. Again, you have no idea if the pup is purebred or mixed, no idea of the genetic background, no idea as to how big it will grow (feet are often an indication as to size but can be misleading) and even less idea of how the pup will turn out – a risky chance to take, especially when you are bringing this young animal into your family and you have young children.
If we consider the health aspect at a rescue shelter, again, there is perhaps a higher chance of the pup being diseased. This is not due to lack of care on the part of the staff, but rather that nearly every animal at a shelter could have been exposed to disease, either just before it arrived or once it is taken in at the shelter, and not all shelters have a quarantine section.
A pup that is taken to the shelter has probably not been given any vaccinations and there is a good chance that the dam was not inoculated either, another area of concern. The shelter
does inoculate as soon as the pups/dogs arrive, but this is not a guarantee that the pup will not get ill, and not all shelters do this – some wait until the dog/pup is being adopted before spending the money on vaccinations.
Responsible Reputable Breeder This is your best option, but as above, just because a dog is ‘registered’ and the breeder a member of an organization such as KUSA (Kennel Union of SA), it does not guarantee that the dog is the best of the breed that you are looking for – all this proves is that the dog has papers.
With the debacle that happened in 2015 where a leading Miniature Schnauzer breeder, Roodewal Kennels, https://www.friendsofthedog.co.za/be-careful-where-you-buy-your-puppy-from.html, was found to be puppy farming (with many other breeders contracted in to supply pups), purchasing from a breeder who is a member of an organization such as KUSA also has its pitfalls - the responsibility is unfortunately on the new owner to really do their homework before purchasing. The conditions that many of the ‘puppy farmers’ tied into Roodewal kept the breeding stock in were beyond belief. Scotty was called in to work with some of the worst cases and these dogs were in a shocking emotional condition and in-depth rehabilitation had to be done.
A dedicated breeder is somebody who is passionate about his particular breed and breeds only for the betterment of the breed, not to make a quick buck. A reputable breeder will be very fussy about who his pups go to. A perfect example of this is a client who contacted us a while ago for help in getting a pup. Their breed choice was eventually a Beagle and after going through the puppy questionnaire did a lot of research on the breed, going to shows, they eventually found two breeders that were recommended to them at a show, and made appointments to go and see them. Both these breeders ‘interviewed’ our clients and insisted that Mother, Father, Child and Home Helper came to the interview. They were asked countless questions, including what Arrangements they had made for puppy class. After they ‘passed’ this section, the breeder came to view their premises and home. Only then were their names put on the Waiting List for a pup. Yes, a waiting list – the majority of good breeders have clients on waiting lists and will not be found advertising in the local paper – they are well known in the industry and seldom have a problem finding homes for their pups. These particular people waited nearly six months to get their pup as the breeder would only breed when he knew that there were good homes waiting for his pups.
When looking at breeders you want to find one that allows the pups to be part of the family by interacting with them at least part of the time. They should see a lot of different people, be allowed to come into the house, be familiar with the vacuum cleaner and the comings and goings on of a normal household. Scotty went to see seven different breeders before getting her own Border collie, Brady, and he was purchased from a situation as we have just described.
Even with Reputable Responsible Breeders, there are cases where breeding becomes extreme, and the bitch is kept in very sterile conditions, little or no interaction with family or people, and is in a way ‘over protected’. Here too, we would caution against getting a pup. The parent would not have good socialization skills, the pups would not have been exposed to different people and noises and family interaction, and with the run the dogs are being kept in being very sterile, the pup would not have built up immunity towards germs.
The above does not mean that the situation is all one sided – ask the breeder for names and contact numbers of people who have purchased puppies and phone them – even better go and visit them and see what their dog is like. Ask the breeder what type of family is best suited to his own breed. A reputable breeder will not try to push you into buying a puppy or even two; the quality of his pups will speak for themselves. Breeders love talking about their own dogs, so take advantage of this and find out all about physical problems, development stages, problems and so forth. You may end up not taking one of the pups, but you will have learnt a huge amount!
Another point to consider when purchasing from a reputable breeder, is that if you pick up any serious problems such as the pup not being accepted into your existing pack or health problems when checked by your own vet, or later, which could be genetic, the reputable breeder will normally take the pup back. A reputable breeder often keeps in touch with the owners of his pups to see how they are progressing, and we know of many breeders who have taken back full-grown dogs when their owners decided to leave the country, or there is a dramatic change in their circumstances. They cared so much about what they had bred that they kept the dogs until they could find suitable homes for them.
Reputable breeders very often insist that their pups are sterilized – this is to ensure the bloodline is kept pure. If you find a breeder that wants you to keep the pup intact as he will use it to breed with at a later stage – run a mile – a reputable breeder will keep the best for themselves or trade with another breeder – the best of the litter will never be sold.
Here is a link to an article by a well-known breeder of the Beagle – well worth reading. http://www.friendsofthedog.co.za/responsible-breeding.html
What to ask the breeder - Ask to see both the dam (mother) and the sire (father – not always possible). If there is any reason why you cannot see at least the mother and interact with her, leave immediately! Have a look at the general condition of the dam, she may be a bit on the thin side due to recently having given birth and caring for her pups, but apart from this, should appear to be in good physical condition. This is the ‘stock’ that your puppy will come from, and it is imperative that you can see what your own pup will grow up to be like – not just in looks, more importantly in temperament. Genetics account for approximately 60% of what your pup will end up as.
Have a look around and ensure that the premises where the dogs and pups are kept are spotless. Dirty premises could well be an indication of not enough care being taken and this could rub off onto what is bred as well.
You may even find that the pet shop puppy which has now grown somewhat and is no longer as cute and appealing, has been given to the shelter to home! The litters of back yard breeders who can’t find homes for the pups more often than not end up at a shelter. Again, you have no idea if the pup is purebred or mixed, no idea of the genetic background, no idea as to how big it will grow (feet are often an indication as to size but can be misleading) and even less idea of how the pup will turn out – a risky chance to take, especially when you are bringing this young animal into your family and you have young children.
If we consider the health aspect at a rescue shelter, again, there is perhaps a higher chance of the pup being diseased. This is not due to lack of care on the part of the staff, but rather that nearly every animal at a shelter could have been exposed to disease, either just before it arrived or once it is taken in at the shelter, and not all shelters have a quarantine section.
A pup that is taken to the shelter has probably not been given any vaccinations and there is a good chance that the dam was not inoculated either, another area of concern. The shelter
does inoculate as soon as the pups/dogs arrive, but this is not a guarantee that the pup will not get ill, and not all shelters do this – some wait until the dog/pup is being adopted before spending the money on vaccinations.
Responsible Reputable Breeder This is your best option, but as above, just because a dog is ‘registered’ and the breeder a member of an organization such as KUSA (Kennel Union of SA), it does not guarantee that the dog is the best of the breed that you are looking for – all this proves is that the dog has papers.
With the debacle that happened in 2015 where a leading Miniature Schnauzer breeder, Roodewal Kennels, https://www.friendsofthedog.co.za/be-careful-where-you-buy-your-puppy-from.html, was found to be puppy farming (with many other breeders contracted in to supply pups), purchasing from a breeder who is a member of an organization such as KUSA also has its pitfalls - the responsibility is unfortunately on the new owner to really do their homework before purchasing. The conditions that many of the ‘puppy farmers’ tied into Roodewal kept the breeding stock in were beyond belief. Scotty was called in to work with some of the worst cases and these dogs were in a shocking emotional condition and in-depth rehabilitation had to be done.
A dedicated breeder is somebody who is passionate about his particular breed and breeds only for the betterment of the breed, not to make a quick buck. A reputable breeder will be very fussy about who his pups go to. A perfect example of this is a client who contacted us a while ago for help in getting a pup. Their breed choice was eventually a Beagle and after going through the puppy questionnaire did a lot of research on the breed, going to shows, they eventually found two breeders that were recommended to them at a show, and made appointments to go and see them. Both these breeders ‘interviewed’ our clients and insisted that Mother, Father, Child and Home Helper came to the interview. They were asked countless questions, including what Arrangements they had made for puppy class. After they ‘passed’ this section, the breeder came to view their premises and home. Only then were their names put on the Waiting List for a pup. Yes, a waiting list – the majority of good breeders have clients on waiting lists and will not be found advertising in the local paper – they are well known in the industry and seldom have a problem finding homes for their pups. These particular people waited nearly six months to get their pup as the breeder would only breed when he knew that there were good homes waiting for his pups.
When looking at breeders you want to find one that allows the pups to be part of the family by interacting with them at least part of the time. They should see a lot of different people, be allowed to come into the house, be familiar with the vacuum cleaner and the comings and goings on of a normal household. Scotty went to see seven different breeders before getting her own Border collie, Brady, and he was purchased from a situation as we have just described.
Even with Reputable Responsible Breeders, there are cases where breeding becomes extreme, and the bitch is kept in very sterile conditions, little or no interaction with family or people, and is in a way ‘over protected’. Here too, we would caution against getting a pup. The parent would not have good socialization skills, the pups would not have been exposed to different people and noises and family interaction, and with the run the dogs are being kept in being very sterile, the pup would not have built up immunity towards germs.
The above does not mean that the situation is all one sided – ask the breeder for names and contact numbers of people who have purchased puppies and phone them – even better go and visit them and see what their dog is like. Ask the breeder what type of family is best suited to his own breed. A reputable breeder will not try to push you into buying a puppy or even two; the quality of his pups will speak for themselves. Breeders love talking about their own dogs, so take advantage of this and find out all about physical problems, development stages, problems and so forth. You may end up not taking one of the pups, but you will have learnt a huge amount!
Another point to consider when purchasing from a reputable breeder, is that if you pick up any serious problems such as the pup not being accepted into your existing pack or health problems when checked by your own vet, or later, which could be genetic, the reputable breeder will normally take the pup back. A reputable breeder often keeps in touch with the owners of his pups to see how they are progressing, and we know of many breeders who have taken back full-grown dogs when their owners decided to leave the country, or there is a dramatic change in their circumstances. They cared so much about what they had bred that they kept the dogs until they could find suitable homes for them.
Reputable breeders very often insist that their pups are sterilized – this is to ensure the bloodline is kept pure. If you find a breeder that wants you to keep the pup intact as he will use it to breed with at a later stage – run a mile – a reputable breeder will keep the best for themselves or trade with another breeder – the best of the litter will never be sold.
Here is a link to an article by a well-known breeder of the Beagle – well worth reading. http://www.friendsofthedog.co.za/responsible-breeding.html
What to ask the breeder - Ask to see both the dam (mother) and the sire (father – not always possible). If there is any reason why you cannot see at least the mother and interact with her, leave immediately! Have a look at the general condition of the dam, she may be a bit on the thin side due to recently having given birth and caring for her pups, but apart from this, should appear to be in good physical condition. This is the ‘stock’ that your puppy will come from, and it is imperative that you can see what your own pup will grow up to be like – not just in looks, more importantly in temperament. Genetics account for approximately 60% of what your pup will end up as.
Have a look around and ensure that the premises where the dogs and pups are kept are spotless. Dirty premises could well be an indication of not enough care being taken and this could rub off onto what is bred as well.
6. One or two pups?
Once again, a reputable breeder will not let you take two pups. There are various reasons for this: -
The above is a good example of where further education to the public needs to be undertaken. We have come across two Boerboels, bitches that were literally killing one another and on asking why they had two was told that the SPCA said there wouldn’t be any problems as they were sisters!
7. What to look for in a pup
Now comes the most exciting moment, you have chosen your breed, and you have found your breeder, now you can choose your puppy!
Spend as much time as you can sitting and observing the pups – remember what you buy will be with you for many years, so please spend as much time as possible looking for the best pup for you.
On average the first pup that runs up to greet you, jumps all over you, licking and chewing on you, is not the pup to take for a family. This is often the bossiest of the pups and may be a handful to manage. We often come across people we are helping from a behavioural point of view of dominant behaviour, who will tell me “oh he chose me, just jumped into my arms and started licking and chewing on me!”
At the opposite end of the spectrum, don’t choose the pup who is sitting quietly in a corner ignoring everybody or being bullied by the others. This could very well be the most fearful pup in the litter and you could end up with fear-based behaviour. When working with these dogs later in their lives, when asked why they purchased this particular dog we are often told ‘shame, she just sat at the back and looked so sad!’
Ideally you want to choose one from in between these two extremes – one that is friendly and comes to say hello but is just as interested in playing with its litter mates or getting a drink from mum.
On taking your pup home, one of the first things you should do is take it to your own vet for a thorough check up – even arrange this for the day you take the pup home.
What to look for - an unhealthy pup
You may find that there is one pup in this litter that just captures your heart and it appears to be healthy – please don’t – walk away. That an unhealthy pup is in with healthy one’s spells trouble – you don’t know what the puppy you have chosen may be harbouring and the breeder has a definite question mark on his abilities as a breeder as far as we are concerned.
Once again, a reputable breeder will not let you take two pups. There are various reasons for this: -
- The pups will tend to bond more with one another than with their new family.
- The attachment could become so intense that if they are separated you start to have behaviour problems – this happens very, very quickly.
- Two pups of the same breed are more likely to fight especially if bitches– the same things are important to the dogs. This will not always occur until the pups reach approximately 8 months of age, the adolescent age.
- Two dogs are double work and are much harder to train than one dog.
- Two dogs are double expenses.
- When you have two pups together, one will tend to be boisterous and the other more reserved. This can lead to the more reserved pup never growing to its full potential.
The above is a good example of where further education to the public needs to be undertaken. We have come across two Boerboels, bitches that were literally killing one another and on asking why they had two was told that the SPCA said there wouldn’t be any problems as they were sisters!
7. What to look for in a pup
Now comes the most exciting moment, you have chosen your breed, and you have found your breeder, now you can choose your puppy!
Spend as much time as you can sitting and observing the pups – remember what you buy will be with you for many years, so please spend as much time as possible looking for the best pup for you.
On average the first pup that runs up to greet you, jumps all over you, licking and chewing on you, is not the pup to take for a family. This is often the bossiest of the pups and may be a handful to manage. We often come across people we are helping from a behavioural point of view of dominant behaviour, who will tell me “oh he chose me, just jumped into my arms and started licking and chewing on me!”
At the opposite end of the spectrum, don’t choose the pup who is sitting quietly in a corner ignoring everybody or being bullied by the others. This could very well be the most fearful pup in the litter and you could end up with fear-based behaviour. When working with these dogs later in their lives, when asked why they purchased this particular dog we are often told ‘shame, she just sat at the back and looked so sad!’
Ideally you want to choose one from in between these two extremes – one that is friendly and comes to say hello but is just as interested in playing with its litter mates or getting a drink from mum.
- Pick up the pups individually – a friendly pup will normally be happy to be picked up and say hello for a period, while an unfriendly pup may struggle against you to be released or become slightly reactive towards you, demanding to be put on the ground. A good breeder will know all the pups intimately and will help you to make the correct decision as to which pup is right for you.
- Many of the breeders have their pups ‘temperament tested’ so that they can better match a pup to its prospective new owners and notes on this are given later.
- The pups in a litter should be approximately the same weight and size. If there are large variations in weight and size this could very well indicate underlying health problems.
- The eyes will be clear and shiny and will not have a discharge.
- See if the ears smell clean with no discharge. The inside of the ear should not be red or look swollen or inflamed.
- The nose should be a little moist with no excessive discharge. There should not be any sniffing or sneezing.
- The coat should be lovely and soft, shinny, and smooth with no patches of dry or irritated skin. A pup cannot have flea and tick products until they are over 8 weeks of age but do look to see if there are any fleas or flea dust – which is like tiny black dandruff on the skin.
- See what the pup smells like. Pups have a gorgeous ‘puppy’ smell especially when healthy.
- Have a look at the rear region and down the back legs. This should not have any bits of faecal matter and no staining on the legs from a runny tummy.
- A healthy pup will run, play, jump and interact with its litter mates. It will have a good appetite and on awaking will quickly be full of energy.
- If there are multiple litters – leave, this could be a puppy mill, however it could be that the breeder has two bitches breeding at the same time.
- If the paperwork is not ready and will be forwarded to you – leave.
- Find out what age the pups are and at what age they were separated from their mom. This should not happen until at least 7 weeks of age.
On taking your pup home, one of the first things you should do is take it to your own vet for a thorough check up – even arrange this for the day you take the pup home.
What to look for - an unhealthy pup
- As opposed to the healthy pup that runs around and interacts with its litter mate, an unhealthy pup tends to isolate itself or if there is more than one in this condition, they will lie together.
- The eyes may be dull with no sparkle and possibly have mucous or discharge at the sides. Some unhealthy pups, when picked up seem to avoid looking at you and will turn away.
- The ears may smell, have a discharge or be red and inflamed inside.
- The coat may be dull and appear lifeless. Also look for raw patches, lumps or bumps. Check for fleas or ticks.
- The pup should not be skinny with the ribs showing. By the same token a pup that has a definite pot belly may well have worms.
- A pup that has faecal matter at the rear end or soiling marks on the back legs could be suffering from diarrhoea and possible disease.
- See if you can see any stools in the area where the pups are kept and look at the consistency.
- Often a pup that is unhealthy does not have that lovely ‘puppy smell’ – instead it will have an odour. Different diseases have different smells but anything that doesn’t smell ‘right’ should not be considered
- The pup may be off its food.
You may find that there is one pup in this litter that just captures your heart and it appears to be healthy – please don’t – walk away. That an unhealthy pup is in with healthy one’s spells trouble – you don’t know what the puppy you have chosen may be harbouring and the breeder has a definite question mark on his abilities as a breeder as far as we are concerned.
